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2002 Accent rotor removal

 
nobody
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      04-29-2007, 02:44 PM
I need to replace pads and rotors on my 2002 Accent, can anyone tell me
if these rotors are pressed on, or can I replace them without needing
the assistance of a shop. Thanks,

 
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Brian Nystrom
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      04-30-2007, 10:57 AM
nobody wrote:
> I need to replace pads and rotors on my 2002 Accent, can anyone tell me
> if these rotors are pressed on, or can I replace them without needing
> the assistance of a shop. Thanks,


I just replaced the rotors on my Elantra this weekend, which is similar
to your Accent. The rotors are not pressed on, but they tend to rust in
place. Generally, the only way to get them off is to cut them down to
the hub in two places and split them, which is not as difficult as it
sounds. I made hacksaw cuts that lined up with the holes for the rotor
retaining screws and split them by driving a screwdriver into the saw
cuts. It took ~10 minutes per cut with a hacksaw and a sharp 18 TPI
blade. Even after splitting them, it still took some "persuasion" with a
mallet to get them off, due to rust around the periphery of the hub. I
cleaned that up with a file once the old rotors were off and the new
ones slid right into place.

BTW, the heads of the rotor retaining screws will almost invariably
shear off when you try to remove them. It doesn't matter as they're not
structural, simply an assembly convenience. The wheels hold the rotors
tight to the hubs and the studs and hubs position them properly, so the
screws aren't necessary.
 
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nobody
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      04-30-2007, 12:38 PM
Wow, so you are actually sawing through the rotor and more or less
breaking it off the hub? I suppose this would be less traumatic than
pounding away with a hammer to break them free.


Brian Nystrom wrote:
> I just replaced the rotors on my Elantra this weekend, which is similar
> to your Accent. The rotors are not pressed on, but they tend to rust in
> place. Generally, the only way to get them off is to cut them down to
> the hub in two places and split them, which is not as difficult as it
> sounds. I made hacksaw cuts that lined up with the holes for the rotor
> retaining screws and split them by driving a screwdriver into the saw
> cuts. It took ~10 minutes per cut with a hacksaw and a sharp 18 TPI
> blade. Even after splitting them, it still took some "persuasion" with a
> mallet to get them off, due to rust around the periphery of the hub. I
> cleaned that up with a file once the old rotors were off and the new
> ones slid right into place.
>
> BTW, the heads of the rotor retaining screws will almost invariably
> shear off when you try to remove them. It doesn't matter as they're not
> structural, simply an assembly convenience. The wheels hold the rotors
> tight to the hubs and the studs and hubs position them properly, so the
> screws aren't necessary.

 
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Finn
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      04-30-2007, 01:08 PM
This is what i did.
Heat them up with a torch and a few light taps with a mallet and they were
off.

Just my 0.02 $
Finn



"nobody" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:BqlZh.141093$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Wow, so you are actually sawing through the rotor and more or less
> breaking it off the hub? I suppose this would be less traumatic than
> pounding away with a hammer to break them free.
>
>
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>> I just replaced the rotors on my Elantra this weekend, which is similar
>> to your Accent. The rotors are not pressed on, but they tend to rust in
>> place. Generally, the only way to get them off is to cut them down to the
>> hub in two places and split them, which is not as difficult as it sounds.
>> I made hacksaw cuts that lined up with the holes for the rotor retaining
>> screws and split them by driving a screwdriver into the saw cuts. It took
>> ~10 minutes per cut with a hacksaw and a sharp 18 TPI blade. Even after
>> splitting them, it still took some "persuasion" with a mallet to get them
>> off, due to rust around the periphery of the hub. I cleaned that up with
>> a file once the old rotors were off and the new ones slid right into
>> place.
>>
>> BTW, the heads of the rotor retaining screws will almost invariably shear
>> off when you try to remove them. It doesn't matter as they're not
>> structural, simply an assembly convenience. The wheels hold the rotors
>> tight to the hubs and the studs and hubs position them properly, so the
>> screws aren't necessary.



 
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nobody
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      04-30-2007, 01:38 PM
Sounds good. As long as they are not pressed on, I'm fairly confident I
can coax them off the hubs. I was just curious if they were pressed on
before I bought the pads and rotors and swapped them out myself. Thanks,

Finn wrote:
> This is what i did.
> Heat them up with a torch and a few light taps with a mallet and they were
> off.
>
> Just my 0.02 $
> Finn
>
>
>
> "nobody" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:BqlZh.141093$(E-Mail Removed)...
>> Wow, so you are actually sawing through the rotor and more or less
>> breaking it off the hub? I suppose this would be less traumatic than
>> pounding away with a hammer to break them free.
>>
>>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>> I just replaced the rotors on my Elantra this weekend, which is similar
>>> to your Accent. The rotors are not pressed on, but they tend to rust in
>>> place. Generally, the only way to get them off is to cut them down to the
>>> hub in two places and split them, which is not as difficult as it sounds.
>>> I made hacksaw cuts that lined up with the holes for the rotor retaining
>>> screws and split them by driving a screwdriver into the saw cuts. It took
>>> ~10 minutes per cut with a hacksaw and a sharp 18 TPI blade. Even after
>>> splitting them, it still took some "persuasion" with a mallet to get them
>>> off, due to rust around the periphery of the hub. I cleaned that up with
>>> a file once the old rotors were off and the new ones slid right into
>>> place.
>>>
>>> BTW, the heads of the rotor retaining screws will almost invariably shear
>>> off when you try to remove them. It doesn't matter as they're not
>>> structural, simply an assembly convenience. The wheels hold the rotors
>>> tight to the hubs and the studs and hubs position them properly, so the
>>> screws aren't necessary.

>
>

 
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Brian Nystrom
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      04-30-2007, 04:41 PM
nobody wrote:
> Wow, so you are actually sawing through the rotor and more or less
> breaking it off the hub?


Exactly. It sounds rather draconian, but it's a lot gentler than wailing
on them with a sledge hammer.

> I suppose this would be less traumatic than
> pounding away with a hammer to break them free.


There's no way I would ever have gotten them off without cutting them,
as they're were rusted to the hub at it's periphery. I did try using a
3# hand sledge carefully to free them, but they wouldn't budge. Rather
than wailing on them and risking trashing the bearings, I cut them off.
I had seen this same thing recommended by several people on the Elantra
Club website and it works well.

Perhaps if you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch (I don't), you
might be able to heat them enough to break them free, but I think you'd
be hard-pressed to heat something as large as a rotor enough with a
propane torch. Keep in mind that heating can also cook the grease in the
hub and/or damage the bearings. The key is to heat the rotor very
quickly, causing it to expand away from the hub, then remove it before
the hub gets too hot. That requires a lot of heat.
 
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nobody
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      04-30-2007, 05:34 PM
The hacksaw is total committment to the job, that is for sure.

I once had to bash a set of rotors off of a Ford F150, and I can only
remember it not being loads of fun. Lots of time, penetrating sprays,
time and hammering were involved. Needless to say that if there were
any chance of turning those rotors before, there was no chance after I
was done with them...

On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:41:50 GMT, Brian Nystrom
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>nobody wrote:
>> Wow, so you are actually sawing through the rotor and more or less
>> breaking it off the hub?

>
>Exactly. It sounds rather draconian, but it's a lot gentler than wailing
>on them with a sledge hammer.
>
>> I suppose this would be less traumatic than
>> pounding away with a hammer to break them free.

>
>There's no way I would ever have gotten them off without cutting them,
>as they're were rusted to the hub at it's periphery. I did try using a
>3# hand sledge carefully to free them, but they wouldn't budge. Rather
>than wailing on them and risking trashing the bearings, I cut them off.
>I had seen this same thing recommended by several people on the Elantra
>Club website and it works well.
>
>Perhaps if you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch (I don't), you
>might be able to heat them enough to break them free, but I think you'd
>be hard-pressed to heat something as large as a rotor enough with a
>propane torch. Keep in mind that heating can also cook the grease in the
>hub and/or damage the bearings. The key is to heat the rotor very
>quickly, causing it to expand away from the hub, then remove it before
>the hub gets too hot. That requires a lot of heat.


 
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Brian Nystrom
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      05-01-2007, 11:19 AM
nobody wrote:
> The hacksaw is total committment to the job, that is for sure.
>
> I once had to bash a set of rotors off of a Ford F150, and I can only
> remember it not being loads of fun. Lots of time, penetrating sprays,
> time and hammering were involved. Needless to say that if there were
> any chance of turning those rotors before, there was no chance after I
> was done with them...


Exactly. Whether you cut them or beat them, they're trashed either way.
The question then becomes how much damage do you do to yourself and the
rest of the car. Cutting them off minimizes both.
 
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nobody
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      05-01-2007, 05:07 PM

I'm going to pick up pads and rotors for the weekend. Looks like a
couple of hacksaw blades as well.

So how many cuts are you making in order to get the rotor off? I'm
guessnig you are sawing through to near the hub in at least two
places?

On Tue, 01 May 2007 11:19:48 GMT, Brian Nystrom
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>nobody wrote:
>> The hacksaw is total committment to the job, that is for sure.
>>
>> I once had to bash a set of rotors off of a Ford F150, and I can only
>> remember it not being loads of fun. Lots of time, penetrating sprays,
>> time and hammering were involved. Needless to say that if there were
>> any chance of turning those rotors before, there was no chance after I
>> was done with them...

>
>Exactly. Whether you cut them or beat them, they're trashed either way.
>The question then becomes how much damage do you do to yourself and the
>rest of the car. Cutting them off minimizes both.


 
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billyboy24d
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      05-02-2007, 01:03 PM
On Apr 30, 6:57 am, Brian Nystrom <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> nobody wrote:
> > I need to replace pads and rotors on my 2002 Accent, can anyone tell me
> > if these rotors are pressed on, or can I replace them without needing
> > the assistance of a shop. Thanks,

>
> I just replaced the rotors on my Elantra this weekend, which is similar
> to your Accent. The rotors are not pressed on, but they tend to rust in
> place. Generally, the only way to get them off is to cut them down to
> the hub in two places and split them, which is not as difficult as it
> sounds. I made hacksaw cuts that lined up with the holes for the rotor
> retaining screws and split them by driving a screwdriver into the saw
> cuts. It took ~10 minutes per cut with a hacksaw and a sharp 18 TPI
> blade. Even after splitting them, it still took some "persuasion" with a
> mallet to get them off, due to rust around the periphery of the hub. I
> cleaned that up with a file once the old rotors were off and the new
> ones slid right into place.
>
> BTW, the heads of the rotor retaining screws will almost invariably
> shear off when you try to remove them. It doesn't matter as they're not
> structural, simply an assembly convenience. The wheels hold the rotors
> tight to the hubs and the studs and hubs position them properly, so the
> screws aren't necessary.


If you have a compressor ( or know somone who does), an air chissel
works great. Most of them come with differrent bits and are cheep.
Putting it on the back of the rotor, it will push it off with minimum
dammage to anything including the rotor (depends on how carful you
are) and no chance of a hammer slipping out of your hand and hitting a
fender or smashing something (hand). A lot of shops use this method.
Bill

 
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