2003 Elantra - freaky loss of power - hesitation, then normal

Discussion in 'Hyundai Elantra / Lantra' started by cutlassmoon@yahoo.com, Jul 11, 2007.

  1. Guest

    Last weekend I took my wife and 3 month old baby about an hour's drive
    from home (by interstate) to meet friends at a restaurant. When we
    pull off the interstate I hear a vibration and hear a noise from the
    car, but think little of it.
    We stop at a stop light at the interstate off-ramp. When the light
    turns green I can tell the car isn't responding normally to a
    acceleration - there is hesitation and the vehicle is jerking.

    The car is jerking and loosing power so quickly that I turn onto a
    side street to get off the main road.
    The car maintains a rough idle, so I get out and try to identify where
    what is going on.
    There is definitely a humming sound coming from near the muffler -
    possibly in the fuel tank.
    We're like 8 blocks from the restaurant, so I tell my wife I'm going
    to try and 'make it' so we can at least get some help from our
    friends.
    By the time we get to the restaurant, the car will idle, but totally
    bogs down and acts as if it will die if I give any pressure to the gas
    pedal.... we made it, but immediately call the Hyundai hotline to let
    them know we need assistance.

    I didn't try to drive it home for fear we would get stuck on a hot
    night with my 3 month old - somewhere on the interstate.

    It may part of the issue - so I'll mention that we were down to about
    an 1/8 tank of gas, but no 'low fuel' light yet.

    Hyundai had it towed to the dealer (1 hour away from my home - gee
    thanks).
    4 days later the Hyundai tech says there are no codes found in my cars
    computer and two people test drove it just fine! Yet my wife and I
    both can attest that there was a problem - and it surely didn't just
    magically fix itself.... or did it?

    We're scared to try and drive it home, but the dealership says there's
    nothing wrong with it.

    I guess we'll have to just see what happens.

    Researching on-line I understand it could be bad gas, bad sensors,
    possibly air bubbles forming around the fuel pump after driving
    several miles non-stop (vibration creates gas air bubbles which may be
    sucked into the fuel pump causing the issues).

    But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank...
    Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even
    if the computer didn't register a trouble code?

    Thanks, ~ Cutlass
     
    , Jul 11, 2007
    #1
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  2. <> wrote in message
    > But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank...
    > Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even
    > if the computer didn't register a trouble code?
    >
    > Thanks, ~ Cutlass
    >


    If your gas tank hums, you should enter your car on Americas Got Talent.

    Could that hum be a vent or gas cap leaking? If it is not vented properly,
    it can restrict the flow of gas. It can also be temporary and neutralize
    once the car is turned off, thus the ability to run normally afterwards.
    Chances are, taking the cap off and putting it back on may have cured it;
    and stopped the humming.

    I can't think of a single reason to replace the fuel pump. I'd replace the
    cap though, just in case. Could be other parts of the system but I'm not
    totally familiar with the canister etc. so lat the pro's chime in on that
    part.
     
    Edwin Pawlowski, Jul 11, 2007
    #2
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  3. Steve R. Guest

    Just my dos centavos;

    Similarly something happened to me. Picked up a full tank of fuel in New
    Orleans at an Amoco, made it 10 miles down the road.

    Pump (mechanical) and filter full of "stuff". The pump somehow got a piece
    of debris lodged in the suction side in the check valve.

    Maybe your "sock" got plugged? Might be worth a check to see what kind of
    volume the pump's outputting...possible filter too?

    Steve


    <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Last weekend I took my wife and 3 month old baby about an hour's drive
    > from home (by interstate) to meet friends at a restaurant. When we
    > pull off the interstate I hear a vibration and hear a noise from the
    > car, but think little of it.
    > We stop at a stop light at the interstate off-ramp. When the light
    > turns green I can tell the car isn't responding normally to a
    > acceleration - there is hesitation and the vehicle is jerking.
    >
    > The car is jerking and loosing power so quickly that I turn onto a
    > side street to get off the main road.
    > The car maintains a rough idle, so I get out and try to identify where
    > what is going on.
    > There is definitely a humming sound coming from near the muffler -
    > possibly in the fuel tank.
    > We're like 8 blocks from the restaurant, so I tell my wife I'm going
    > to try and 'make it' so we can at least get some help from our
    > friends.
    > By the time we get to the restaurant, the car will idle, but totally
    > bogs down and acts as if it will die if I give any pressure to the gas
    > pedal.... we made it, but immediately call the Hyundai hotline to let
    > them know we need assistance.
    >
    > I didn't try to drive it home for fear we would get stuck on a hot
    > night with my 3 month old - somewhere on the interstate.
    >
    > It may part of the issue - so I'll mention that we were down to about
    > an 1/8 tank of gas, but no 'low fuel' light yet.
    >
    > Hyundai had it towed to the dealer (1 hour away from my home - gee
    > thanks).
    > 4 days later the Hyundai tech says there are no codes found in my cars
    > computer and two people test drove it just fine! Yet my wife and I
    > both can attest that there was a problem - and it surely didn't just
    > magically fix itself.... or did it?
    >
    > We're scared to try and drive it home, but the dealership says there's
    > nothing wrong with it.
    >
    > I guess we'll have to just see what happens.
    >
    > Researching on-line I understand it could be bad gas, bad sensors,
    > possibly air bubbles forming around the fuel pump after driving
    > several miles non-stop (vibration creates gas air bubbles which may be
    > sucked into the fuel pump causing the issues).
    >
    > But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank...
    > Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even
    > if the computer didn't register a trouble code?
    >
    > Thanks, ~ Cutlass
    >
    >
     
    Steve R., Jul 11, 2007
    #3
  4. Eric G. Guest

    "Steve R." <> wrote in
    news:5XXki.11855$:

    > Just my dos centavos;
    >
    > Similarly something happened to me. Picked up a full tank of fuel in
    > New Orleans at an Amoco, made it 10 miles down the road.
    >
    > Pump (mechanical) and filter full of "stuff". The pump somehow got a
    > piece of debris lodged in the suction side in the check valve.
    >
    > Maybe your "sock" got plugged? Might be worth a check to see what kind
    > of volume the pump's outputting...possible filter too?
    >
    > Steve


    This is what I was thinking too. A piece of dirt caught just right in the
    fuel pump could cause the hum you heard. I had a similar experience too in
    my F-150 a few years ago, although the sound was not a hum but more of a
    clicking. After I shut off the truck I guess the dirt made its way out of
    the pump and it never happened again.

    Eric
     
    Eric G., Jul 11, 2007
    #4
  5. hyundaitech Guest

    It's normal to hear a humming from the fuel tank while the fuel pump is
    running, so your description doesn't necessarily point to a faulty fuel
    pump.

    The vibration and lack of power you report sounds like a misfire. Whether
    caused by the fuel pump or some other cause, I'd expect one or more trouble
    codes if that were indeed the case.

    Here's the difficulty: the problem with your car could be just about
    anywhere. Unless there's some sort of evidence of the nature of the
    problem, replacing a fuel pump or any other part isn't terribly likely to
    solve the issue. If the problem isn't present during testing and there
    are no diagnostic trouble codes, the technician has nothing more to go on
    than your description. In this case, there are so many possible causes
    for the problem you describe, picking one to try isn't likely to be
    fruitful.
     
    hyundaitech, Jul 11, 2007
    #5
  6. Andy C Guest

    If the catalytic converter took a hit and broke up inside it'll do what your
    stating. Had it happen after my wife missed the edge of a driveway and
    bounced down over the curb.When cool it would run ok....but after 30-45 min
    it'll come back.
    <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Last weekend I took my wife and 3 month old baby about an hour's drive
    > from home (by interstate) to meet friends at a restaurant. When we
    > pull off the interstate I hear a vibration and hear a noise from the
    > car, but think little of it.
    > We stop at a stop light at the interstate off-ramp. When the light
    > turns green I can tell the car isn't responding normally to a
    > acceleration - there is hesitation and the vehicle is jerking.
    >
    > The car is jerking and loosing power so quickly that I turn onto a
    > side street to get off the main road.
    > The car maintains a rough idle, so I get out and try to identify where
    > what is going on.
    > There is definitely a humming sound coming from near the muffler -
    > possibly in the fuel tank.
    > We're like 8 blocks from the restaurant, so I tell my wife I'm going
    > to try and 'make it' so we can at least get some help from our
    > friends.
    > By the time we get to the restaurant, the car will idle, but totally
    > bogs down and acts as if it will die if I give any pressure to the gas
    > pedal.... we made it, but immediately call the Hyundai hotline to let
    > them know we need assistance.
    >
    > I didn't try to drive it home for fear we would get stuck on a hot
    > night with my 3 month old - somewhere on the interstate.
    >
    > It may part of the issue - so I'll mention that we were down to about
    > an 1/8 tank of gas, but no 'low fuel' light yet.
    >
    > Hyundai had it towed to the dealer (1 hour away from my home - gee
    > thanks).
    > 4 days later the Hyundai tech says there are no codes found in my cars
    > computer and two people test drove it just fine! Yet my wife and I
    > both can attest that there was a problem - and it surely didn't just
    > magically fix itself.... or did it?
    >
    > We're scared to try and drive it home, but the dealership says there's
    > nothing wrong with it.
    >
    > I guess we'll have to just see what happens.
    >
    > Researching on-line I understand it could be bad gas, bad sensors,
    > possibly air bubbles forming around the fuel pump after driving
    > several miles non-stop (vibration creates gas air bubbles which may be
    > sucked into the fuel pump causing the issues).
    >
    > But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank...
    > Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even
    > if the computer didn't register a trouble code?
    >
    > Thanks, ~ Cutlass
    >
     
    Andy C, Jul 16, 2007
    #6
  7. On Jul 10, 10:22 pm, wrote:
    > Last weekend I took my wife and 3 month old baby about an hour's drive
    > from home (by interstate) to meet friends at a restaurant. When we
    > pull off the interstate I hear a vibration and hear a noise from the
    > car, but think little of it.
    > We stop at a stop light at the interstate off-ramp. When the light
    > turns green I can tell the car isn't responding normally to a
    > acceleration - there is hesitation and the vehicle is jerking.
    >
    > The car is jerking and loosing power so quickly that I turn onto a
    > side street to get off the main road.
    > The car maintains a rough idle, so I get out and try to identify where
    > what is going on.
    > There is definitely a humming sound coming from near the muffler -
    > possibly in the fuel tank.
    > We're like 8 blocks from the restaurant, so I tell my wife I'm going
    > to try and 'make it' so we can at least get some help from our
    > friends.
    > By the time we get to the restaurant, the car will idle, but totally
    > bogs down and acts as if it will die if I give any pressure to the gas
    > pedal.... we made it, but immediately call the Hyundai hotline to let
    > them know we need assistance.
    >
    > I didn't try to drive it home for fear we would get stuck on a hot
    > night with my 3 month old - somewhere on the interstate.
    >
    > It may part of the issue - so I'll mention that we were down to about
    > an 1/8 tank of gas, but no 'low fuel' light yet.
    >
    > Hyundai had it towed to the dealer (1 hour away from my home - gee
    > thanks).
    > 4 days later the Hyundai tech says there are no codes found in my cars
    > computer and two people test drove it just fine! Yet my wife and I
    > both can attest that there was a problem - and it surely didn't just
    > magically fix itself.... or did it?
    >
    > We're scared to try and drive it home, but the dealership says there's
    > nothing wrong with it.
    >
    > I guess we'll have to just see what happens.
    >
    > Researching on-line I understand it could be bad gas, bad sensors,
    > possibly air bubbles forming around the fuel pump after driving
    > several miles non-stop (vibration creates gas air bubbles which may be
    > sucked into the fuel pump causing the issues).
    >
    > But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank...
    > Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even
    > if the computer didn't register a trouble code?
    >
    > Thanks, ~ Cutlass


    -------------- I KNOW THE FEELIN' --------------

    MINE WAS BATTERY TROUBLE ...

    I HAVE A 2004 ELANTRA GLS, AND THE BATTERY IS almost impossible to
    replace and service!

    Hyundai DOESN'T want you even try to:

    1) Check the fluid level in the cells.

    2) Check the body and terminals for corrosion.

    3) Remove the old battery and install a new one.

    These tasks are almost impossible for the average motorist BECAUSE THE
    BATTERY SITS IN AN ENCLOSED, SEALED CASE! You can't see much less
    inspect the cell fluid levels. And half of the bolts under the hood
    on the driver's side have to be removed to free-up the battery.

    See, Hyundai wants you to go to a HYUNDAI DEALER, where a battery
    costs $90, plus up to $50 more to install it. And at most Hyundai
    dealers I know, you have to leave your car for an entire day -- then
    hope it's ready when you return in the late afternoon or early
    evening.

    "Aw, we're sorry, but you see we got real busy and couldn't get to
    yours. But tomorrow!"

    AdvanceAuto Parts, AutoZone, Olympic Auto Parts, and Batteries Plus
    sell the same battery for $52 to $69, some including free
    installation.

    Only problem? They can't get a sufficient supply of them to keep 'em
    in stock!

    And that's what your conniving, inscrutable Hyundai folks want -- to
    force you to spend more on a new battery than a normal car owner would
    expect. Parts companies list the Elantra batteries as "special." And
    that they are!

    Additionally, the OWNER'S MANUAL has neither a diagram or instructions
    for accessing and servicing your Hyundai Elantra battery. Just a one-
    paragraph entry that says, in effect, Be careful when servicing the
    battery."

    I've had my 2004 Elantra GLS for 3 years and the battery is already
    shot. Needless to say, with problems also with the air bags, brakes,
    power locks, and engine noise and vibration, I've bought my last
    Hyundai product!

    My advice to Hyundai? Hold up on building those factories in the
    U.S. Too many one-time customers could make for sluggish, then
    anemic, sales.

    ------------------------
     
    StoneMeThenBurnMe, Aug 14, 2007
    #7
  8. While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the
    electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem
    accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available
    from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and
    Walmart. How much more available could they be?

    FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is
    still working fine after 65K+ miles.
     
    Brian Nystrom, Aug 15, 2007
    #8
  9. On Aug 15, 12:35 pm, Brian Nystrom <> wrote:
    > While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the
    > electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem
    > accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available
    > from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and
    > Walmart. How much more available could they be?
    >
    > FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is
    > still working fine after 65K+ miles.


    Brian:

    You're very lucky. My battery in a 2000 Elantra died somewhere
    between 40,000 - 50,000 miles. That was just the tip of the iceberg.


    Charles R. Whealton
    Charles Whealton @ pleasedontspam.com
     
    Chuck Whealton, Aug 16, 2007
    #9
  10. Jim Yanik Guest

    Chuck Whealton <> wrote in
    news::

    > On Aug 15, 12:35 pm, Brian Nystrom <> wrote:
    >> While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the
    >> electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem
    >> accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available
    >> from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and
    >> Walmart. How much more available could they be?
    >>
    >> FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is
    >> still working fine after 65K+ miles.

    >
    > Brian:
    >
    > You're very lucky. My battery in a 2000 Elantra died somewhere
    > between 40,000 - 50,000 miles. That was just the tip of the iceberg.
    >
    >
    > Charles R. Whealton
    > Charles Whealton @ pleasedontspam.com
    >
    >


    Auto Batteries are not affected by mileage,it's years of service,ambient
    temperature,and vibration that matters.Deep discharging them hastens
    failure.Failing charging systems also hasten battery failure.(both over and
    undercharging.)

    AFAIK,after about 4 years,auto lead acid batteries become a risk for
    failure.

    --
    Jim Yanik
    jyanik
    at
    kua.net
     
    Jim Yanik, Aug 16, 2007
    #10
  11. Chuck Whealton wrote:
    > On Aug 15, 12:35 pm, Brian Nystrom <> wrote:
    >> While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the
    >> electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem
    >> accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available
    >> from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and
    >> Walmart. How much more available could they be?
    >>
    >> FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is
    >> still working fine after 65K+ miles.

    >
    > Brian:
    >
    > You're very lucky. My battery in a 2000 Elantra died somewhere
    > between 40,000 - 50,000 miles. That was just the tip of the iceberg.


    Battery life will vary, depending largely on the temps where you live.
    Hot temps kill batteries faster than cold temps. Additionally, your car
    may have come with a different battery than mine, since the OEM
    equipment changes at times.
     
    Brian Nystrom, Aug 16, 2007
    #11
  12. Jim Yanik wrote:
    >Chuck Whealton <> wrote in
    >news::
    >
    >> On Aug 15, 12:35 pm, Brian Nystrom <> wrote:
    >>> While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the
    >>> electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem
    >>> accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available
    >>> from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and
    >>> Walmart. How much more available could they be?
    >>>
    >>> FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is
    >>> still working fine after 65K+ miles.

    >>
    >> Brian:
    >>
    >> You're very lucky. My battery in a 2000 Elantra died somewhere
    >> between 40,000 - 50,000 miles. That was just the tip of the iceberg.
    >>
    >>
    >> Charles R. Whealton
    >> Charles Whealton @ pleasedontspam.com
    >>
    >>

    >
    >Auto Batteries are not affected by mileage,it's years of service,ambient
    >temperature,and vibration that matters.Deep discharging them hastens
    >failure.Failing charging systems also hasten battery failure.(both over and
    >undercharging.)
    >
    >AFAIK,after about 4 years,auto lead acid batteries become a risk for
    >failure.


    Oddly enough, that's about the frequency at which I've replaced my
    batteries, regardless of the make and model of vehicle they were in.


    --

    We're all here
    because we're not all there.
     
    Murderous Speeding Drunken Distracted Driver (Hect, Aug 17, 2007
    #12
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