Accent engine hesitation

Discussion in 'Hyundai Accent' started by theta00k, Apr 6, 2004.

  1. theta00k

    theta00k Guest

    What year Accent?
     
    theta00k, Apr 6, 2004
    #1
  2. theta00k

    Jon Dalton Guest

    My friend's accent has a problem with engine hestitation at low rpms. When
    you step on the gas below 2500-300 rpm, it goes chug-chug-chug-chug and has
    no power. While driving, this also causes a jerky effect. The spark plugs
    are new. Is this a common problem? I heard the ignition system has
    frequent failures, so could this likely be the cause of it?
     
    Jon Dalton, Apr 6, 2004
    #2
  3. theta00k

    dforant1 Guest

    When was the gas filter changed, ignition wires,fuel injection
    attended to? Timing chain? etc.....
     
    dforant1, Apr 6, 2004
    #3
  4. I have same problem. I drive Accent GL, 2001, four door sedan. When I am
    starting, say in the morning, it behaves strangely initial few minutes, it
    does not move; I feel like some one is simply holding the car behind, then
    after one min I feel a sudden rush of gas (although I didnt not press
    further) and then a jerk and then slowly speed up and I can distinctly
    feel its trying hard to change gear. It takes around 5-6 min before
    everything becomes normal and then it runs fine.

    Is it because of engine temperature? Right now I am living in Worcester,
    MA, USA and we have 34-36 F in morning.

    Sudip


    Sudip Bhattacharjee
    Ph.D. Student
    Pavement Research Group
    Civil Engineering
    Worcester Polytechnic Institute
    100 Institute Road
    Worcester, MA-01609, USA
    Tell: 508-831-5011 (off)
    508-831-6034 (asphalt lab)
    508=831-6134 (graduate computer lab)
     
    Sudip Bhattacharjee, Apr 6, 2004
    #4
  5. theta00k

    theta00k Guest

    How many kilos on the odometer?
     
    theta00k, Apr 6, 2004
    #5
  6. theta00k

    theta00k Guest

    Look up these shops in the phone book, call the nearest one from your home to
    schedule an appointment, take your car to the shop to have it diagnosed.

    Auto Diagnostics Inc
    Auto Doctor
    AutoPro Import Repair
    Chadwick Sq. Texaco
    P & P motors
    S+o Auto Inc.
     
    theta00k, Apr 6, 2004
    #6
  7. theta00k

    Jon Dalton Guest

    It's a 1995 with the 12 valve engine
     
    Jon Dalton, Apr 6, 2004
    #7
  8. theta00k

    Beebo Guest

    Check engine light on? Flashing at anytime, like during acceleration?

    Car recently died suddenly?

    Beebo
     
    Beebo, Apr 7, 2004
    #8
  9. theta00k

    Jon Dalton Guest

    About 150,000. It was bought at around 120,000 without the hesitation.
     
    Jon Dalton, Apr 7, 2004
    #9
  10. theta00k

    Jon Dalton Guest

    no to all of that
     
    Jon Dalton, Apr 7, 2004
    #10
  11. Nothing wrong when running, no warning lights. Everything is normal, only
    it just does not want to move at starting. I guess its purely temperature
    related problem, because after few hours of running, it starts smoothly
    w/o any problem.

    I suppose Accent GLs are manufactured in Koria. Can any one give me an
    idea what specifications they use, whether they follow US standards or
    not.
     
    Sudip Bhattacharjee, Apr 7, 2004
    #11
  12. theta00k

    Beebo Guest

    If the check engine light isn't on, or flashing during acceleration, I
    would say that rules out any serious ignition problems, or air/fuel
    delivery problems.

    Check the timing and see if its steady at 5o BTDC or have a shop check
    for you. Minimal cost there, but it will tell you if you have any
    misses or if its a timing issue and its just not serious enough to
    trigger the Check Engine Light.

    Does it do this with the car in park or neutral with the accelerator
    pressed as well as normal driving speeds?

    Beebo
     
    Beebo, Apr 7, 2004
    #12
  13. theta00k

    hyundaitech Guest

    Since this is a 1995, it doesn't have obdII misfire monitoring. The
    computer won't detect an ignition problem unliss it's on the primary side.
    The timing is not adjustable and won't remain steady because the computer
    is constantly adjusting it.

    The description sounds exactly like an ignition misfire. I'd be checking
    the coil, wires, plugs. Check the plugs and wires especially for a carbon
    track down the porcelain of the plug and inside the wire boot. Spray down
    the wires with water and see if there is any arcing. If you don't find
    anything abnormal above, you may be looking at a weak sparking coil.
     
    hyundaitech, Apr 8, 2004
    #13
  14. theta00k

    hyundaitech Guest

    There are several ecm reflashes for this condition on a 2001 Accent. You
    may wish to take the vehicle to the dealer for them to check. It may not
    have the latest update.
     
    hyundaitech, Apr 8, 2004
    #14
  15. theta00k

    Jon Dalton Guest

    Thanks. I found in my search that these coil packs fail often. I'll be
    checking that out. Plugs are new, wires aren't. If the coils are bad,
    wouldn't that show up as a weak or intermittent spark? I was planning to
    remove the wires one at a time and check the spark on each cylinder. Other
    than that, I don't know how to test a coil with any certainty.
     
    Jon Dalton, Apr 8, 2004
    #15
  16. theta00k

    Beebo Guest

    Doh!

    Thanks for setting me straight!

    I have a 96 Accent and I'm going through similar problems, so I
    thought I could help the guy out by going over the first phase of
    troubleshooting I went through.

    Now perhaps you could help with my problem?

    1996 Accent
    1.5l SOHC Alpha engine
    126k miles

    My check engine light is on with the following codes stored:
    P1123
    P0304
    P0302

    Car idles ok, but misfires and runs rough at normal driving speed.
    Lots of jerking and kicking at times (like a bad tranny) . Not
    consistently though. Same type of hesitation as the OP described.

    I've replaced my plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil (even though the
    coil resistance was within spec according to hmaservice.com, just in
    case there was an intermittent problem with it).

    Checked for vacuum leaks.

    I've checked the resistance of my Throttle Position Sensor, between
    terminal 2 & 3 and I get a reading of 1.9 kohms. Out of spec or within
    tolerance?

    I would assume if my MAF, TPS or other sensor had gone bad, I would
    see a relevant trouble code stored as well, but I don't.

    I'm completely stumped.

    /pray
    Please don't let it be my ECM....

    Beebo
     
    Beebo, Apr 8, 2004
    #16
  17. Can you tell me what can cause a jerking action during drive? I have
    Accent GL, 2001, 37,700 miles. I get no warning lights. I get a slow start
    when i start after a long idle engine, e.g. in morning. I feels like it
    does not move, something is holding it behind. Again I get no warning
    lights. It becomes easy in few minutes when engine gets hot. But jerking
    actions during drive remains. Whats the problem?

    Sudip
     
    Sudip Bhattacharjee, Apr 8, 2004
    #17
  18. theta00k

    hyundaitech Guest

    P0302 and P0304 represent misfires on cylinders 2 and 4, respectively.
    P1123 is a rich fuel trim code. So far, you've hit on all the likely
    points that would cause misfire and dump fuel into exhaust. I'd tend to
    rule out TPS, MAF and such because they would affect all cylinders
    equally.

    Does this engine have an egr? I can't remember. I've seen egr valves
    stuck open causing misfire codes. Apparently the egr passages are such
    that it adds exhaust to some cylinders more than others.

    If you're satisfied everything above is ok, I'd recommend checking
    compression and/or switching the #2 and #4 injectors with the #1 and #3
    injectors. If you clear the codes and the lamp returns with P0301 and
    P0303, then you know it was the injectors. You can try similar strategies
    with the plugs and wires (if they reach) if you are not sure of their
    quality. I will say that some brands of aftermarket plugs have been
    especially troublesome and nearly all aftermarket wires have been junk
    based on what I have seen.
     
    hyundaitech, Apr 8, 2004
    #18
  19. theta00k

    Beebo Guest

    Nope, no EGR valve...

    Switched the injectors....same codes as before.

    And replaced the wires with OEM wires from the dealership today.
    Plus were NGK plugs..

    While I was at the dealership, I had them pull the codes and run a bit
    of troubleshooting for me.

    They came up with the same responses you did.

    Not the TPS, MAF or the ignition coil.

    I may have left out a large chunk of relevant information that may
    help...

    The tech noticed my car is burning oil. I've had the compression
    tested and the previous mechanic said that the results indicated my
    oil rings were most likely fine, but I most likely need a valve job as
    oil was leaking into the combustion chamber.

    Pulling my plugs, we noticed they're fouling out.

    His theory:

    The plugs are fouling out and causing the non-burned fuel/air mixture
    to be dumped. When this mixture hits the O2 sensor, it triggers the
    P1123 too rich code. The ECM tries to compensate by adjusting the
    timing to get a more efficient burn, which explains the timing jumping
    around so much.

    So, fix the oil leak and fix the problem?

    Or not plausible?

    I'm going to take the care into either another shop, or back to the
    dealership to have the compression rechecked.

    Any situation that you can think of in which the compression checks
    out fine but it may still be the oil rings?

    $300 for a valve job I can stomach.

    $1500 for a rebuild, I dunno about.

    Car just isn't worth that much.

    (*** On a side note, the dealership didn't even charge me for the
    30-45 min the tech spent on looking at the car! I was impressed as I
    was ready to fork over the $70 just so I'd know from a reliable source
    what the !$#@ my problem was!)
     
    Beebo, Apr 9, 2004
    #19
  20. theta00k

    hyundaitech Guest

    Sounds like they've done a good job. Chances are, if you fix the oil leak,
    you also fix everything else. Also sounds like you have a major problem.
    You're either looking at a valve stem seal issue or a ring issue. If you
    have no blue smoke present on cold starts or after idling for a
    significant period of time, you're likely looking at a lower end issue.
    It sounds to me like unless this car is in exceptional shape, the repairs
    will be too much for a 1996 Accent. Then again, I work in the high rent
    district. The prices you listed seem very low to me.
     
    hyundaitech, Apr 9, 2004
    #20
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.