06 Sonata 3.3L oil change procedure questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter mbleisch
  • Start date Start date
M

mbleisch

Random thought on a 3.3L V6 Sonata oil change.......should the NEW oil
filter cartridge have a little fresh clean oil poured over it before
it seats in the housing?

Also, should the cartridge housing be filled with some oil before the
cap is put back on? The maintenance schedule says (I believe) the
filter holds 0.3L of oil.
 
Random thought on a 3.3L V6 Sonata oil change.......should the NEW oil
filter cartridge have a little fresh clean oil poured over it before
it seats in the housing?

Also, should the cartridge housing be filled with some oil before the
cap is put back on? The maintenance schedule says (I believe) the
filter holds 0.3L of oil.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about oil on the catridge itself, but I do run a bead on
the o-rings.

I guess you could put some oil in the housing before you seal it up, but it
doesn't seem necessary to me. I've never done it myself and never need to
add a drop of oil after filling the crankcase and letting it warm up a few
minutes.

Eric
 
I wouldn't worry about oil on the catridge itself, but I do run a bead on
the o-rings.

I guess you could put some oil in the housing before you seal it up, but it
doesn't seem necessary to me. I've never done it myself and never need to
add a drop of oil after filling the crankcase and letting it warm up a few
minutes.

Eric
Click to expand...

Oh yes definitely - standard procedure in my book. I don't know why
the dealer told me the oil change would be hard....the only difficult
thing is keeping everything around the filter clean......sure can get
really messy.

I wasn't sure if that should be done, I didn't do it on either oil
change (this has only been the second oil change). Just wanted to
make sure. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I don't know why
the dealer told me the oil change would be hard....
Click to expand...

Probably so he can charge more. The only thing extra he has to do compared
to other cars is remove the engine shroud to get to the filter. The place I
go to charge $5 more for cars like that, plus $2 for the lighter oil since
he buys the 10W-30 in bulk, but the 5W in bottles. That still puts him
about $15 less than most dealers and he is 20 miles closer. The cartridge
filters cost a bit more than the spin on types. That makes sense too since
they have less metal they charge more for them. :)
 
Probably so he can charge more. The only thing extra he has to do compared
to other cars is remove the engine shroud to get to the filter. The place I
go to charge $5 more for cars like that, plus $2 for the lighter oil since
he buys the 10W-30 in bulk, but the 5W in bottles. That still puts him
about $15 less than most dealers and he is 20 miles closer. The cartridge
filters cost a bit more than the spin on types. That makes sense too since
they have less metal they charge more for them. :)
Click to expand...

I completely agree Edwin.......it's not all that hard to begin with.
Common sense stuff. I think it's easier to change the oil in our 06
Sonata than it is in our 05 Tucson.
 
Edwin Pawlowski said:
Probably so he can charge more. The only thing extra he has to do
compared to other cars is remove the engine shroud to get to the filter.
The place I go to charge $5 more for cars like that, plus $2 for the
lighter oil since he buys the 10W-30 in bulk, but the 5W in bottles. That
still puts him about $15 less than most dealers and he is 20 miles closer.
The cartridge filters cost a bit more than the spin on types. That makes
sense too since they have less metal they charge more for them. :)
Click to expand...

You describe my situation to a tee....closer cheaper quicker in town.

One question for you all - The dealer says their filter is different,
and afetrmarket filters could lead to troubles, and warranty problems???

I took a quick look at Hyundai filter and the "quick lube" filter(made in
Korea) side by side and they looked identical - decidedly low tech
cylindrical paper element between to round open bases w/ no check valves or
other gizmos

....did I miss something? PS This may have been bandied about before in
the group, but having seen the filters I just didn't notice a difference,
and inquiring minds want to know.
 
Take the oil filter canister cover loose but do not remove it. Then drain
your oil and reinstall the plug. You'll find that when you get back to
the canister the oil has drained out.
 
Darby OGill said:
I took a quick look at Hyundai filter and the "quick lube" filter(made in
Korea) side by side and they looked identical - decidedly low tech
cylindrical paper element between to round open bases w/ no check valves
or other gizmos

....did I miss something? PS This may have been bandied about before in
the group, but having seen the filters I just didn't notice a difference,
and inquiring minds want to know.
Click to expand...

I've not been able to find any aftermarket filters yet. I've bought the
Hyundai from the dealer for $8.95 and my oil change guy gives me an
allowance for them.

Good chance that the filter you have is the same exact one made for Hyundai,
but I've no way of telling. Just be sure to read the fine print on the
warranty before you use them.
 
I have changed my oil 3 times now, never had any oil in the filter cavity!.
I always drain the crankcase, then take off the oilfilter cao.filter and
there's never been any oil in the hole! all drained out!
 
Hello members,
I understand this to be older post however, recently acquired 07 Hyundai Sonata SE 3.3, and was surprised by oil filter setup (Mercedes Benz SL550 uses same setup). I believe OEM filter cartridge and O-rings are manufactured by FRAM (which is manufactured in Korea). The FRAM part # is CH9999. Before installing;
1. The oil filter housing is accessed from the top of the engine by removing the decorative cover which is held on by 6 bolts/nuts. Facing the engine, the filter housing cover is a domed round plastic cap about 4" in diameter slightly to the right of center.

2. Note carefully that there's a white painted "match" mark somewhere on the more exposed side of the filter housing. When you twist the cap back on, you'll want to make sure you turn it far enough to get those marks to line up again. If your car doesn't have such an alignment mark, make one yourself.

3. There is apparently a special tool for removing the filter cap sold by Hyundai, but I was able to easily twist mine off by hand. Before starting to remove the cap, wrap rags around the housing below the cap to catch any oil that might drip during cartridge lift-out. Also, have a container of some sort handy into which you can lift the cartridge without trailing it across the top of the engine. It is easy to avoid dripping any oil anywhere.

4. Change the filter BEFORE draining the oil out of the pan to enable the oil trapped in the housing to drain into the pan before the pan is emptied.

5. The cap takes several turns to get it off. When you lift it off, the filter will come with it since the filter is mounted on a hollow spindle that's attached to the cap and extends out of the bottom end of the filter a few inches. Once out of the housing, the old filter pulls straight off the spindle.

6. There are four o-rings to concern yourself with. They come with the replacement filter. Two are already installed inside the ends of the filter, there's one about 1/2" in diameter that can be found on the end of the spindle, and a large one the diameter of the cap seals the cap to the housing. The small one on the end of the spindle is sorta hard to get off and replace. Squeeze the o-ring, press it one direction, and get a nail under the loose part to help pry it off. Before putting on the new one, oil it to help it slip over the end of the spindle and back into its groove. The larger one is much easier to replace. Oil it too.

7. Before placing the new cartridge onto the spindle, oil the two o-rings inside the ends of the filter. This will help them slip into place. Push it on as far is it will go.

8. I've read how several people have had problems getting the cap cinched back down properly. That's because they fail to bathe the large o-ring with oil AND the inner surface of the housing where the o-ring will be required to twist/slide into place as the cap is screwed down. Trying to put the cap on with the o-ring and housing inner surface dry will be almost impossible, will probably damage the o-ring, and will most likely leak. Twist the cap/filter assembly down till it bottoms out on the housing, and the white marks are aligned.

8. Once that's done, drain your oil and replace crush washer with new crush washer before installing drain plug. It is recommended to replace the crush washer each time the oil is changed because the washer is crushed when it is intalled! Get a new washer, and compare it with the washer on your car when you change the oil. The difference is obvious; the used one is much thinner and has a larger diameter. The whole point of the washer is to make sure there is a good seal and that the drain plug doesn't back out. Some Hyundai dealers may throw in the crush washer for free with filter purchase.
Refill as you would any other car. Don't forget to remove the rag from around the filter housing before replacing the decorative engine cover.

Originally posted on hyundaiforum.com by Gary in Sandy Eggo
 
Last edited:
Hello members,
I've been in contact with the chassis tuning company, Ultra Racing in hopes of having a front strut brace manufactured for the 2006 - 2010 Hyundai Sonata with 3.3 V6. Ultra Racing currently manufactures a quality on piece non adjustable steel bar for the 06 - up Hyundai Sonata with 2.4 liter (bar will not fit 3.3 which is not stated. I tried and still have new!)
If enough interest is generated, than production will begin. I will gather additional information on pricing and pre-order as it becomes available. If interested in finally having a quality strut bar available, please e-mail Evan at [email protected]. Put Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6 strut bar in subject line and include that your a member of HyundaiForums.com in your e-mail.
Also, if any members are located in the Rome (Central) NY area, Evan will need test vehicle (06 - 2010 Hyundai sonata with 3.3 V6) to test fit the new bar. e-mail Evan for additional information on having your vehicle used to create the bar.
Thanks for your time !
 
Awaiting follow up regarding one piece strut tower brace from Ultra Racing / NextGentuning, who is process of locating test vehicle for strut bar measurements.
Hopefully enough interest will be generated to have one produced!
Thanks in advance, to all members for taking the time to view.
 
Last edited:
Follow up regarding availability of one piece steel front strut bar for 2006 - 2010 Hyundai Sonata with 3.3 engine.
Ultra Racing has finally produced one piece steel strut bar for 2006 - 2010 Hyundai Sonata & Hyundai Azera with 3.3 engine, that fits without issue!! (Ultra Racing Part # TW2-2287)
http://www.nextgentu.../i-2019333.aspx
All interested in purchasing Ultra Racing strut bar, can do so by visiting above link. NextGenTuning is willing to discount price and add free shipping for all thehyundaiforums members interested.
Enter promo code NGT25S when checking out to receive discount and free shipping.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top