1997 Hyundai Elantra Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dennis D
  • Start date Start date
D

Dennis D

Will not start but it will 'almost' catch, so I replace the plug an
wires, it ran that evening but the next morning no start. Two days late
I jumped it with another battery it ran that evening but the nex
morning no start. I changed the coil pack this time no start. It ack
like something is loose
 
Dennis said:
Will not start but it will 'almost' catch, so I replace the plug and
wires, it ran that evening but the next morning no start. Two days later
I jumped it with another battery it ran that evening but the next
morning no start. I changed the coil pack this time no start. It acks
like something is loose?
Click to expand...

Mabe it's acking that way becuz it's winner and it's cold. Butt then
what do I no I use webtv.
 
Will not start but it will 'almost' catch, so I replace the plug and
wires, it ran that evening but the next morning no start. Two days later
I jumped it with another battery it ran that evening but the next
morning no start. I changed the coil pack this time no start. It acks
like something is loose?
Click to expand...

Hi, Dennis. We're going to need some more information, and you're
probably need to do some tests.

First, explain what you mean by "almost catch." I originally thought
this meant that the engine cranked normally but wouldn't start. When
I read that you had jump started the car, I wasn't so sure anymore.
Does the starter turn the engine normally? at all? slowly?

Has your check engine lamp been coming on? If so, it's a good idea to
read the codes. If the car won't drive, however, it'll probably be
difficult to access a code reader without having it towed to a shop.

If it does indeed crank normally, you should test to see if you're
getting spark from the ignition coil.
 
The car has always turned over except when I ran the battery down, i
was in need of a new battery so I bought one

The phrase "almost catch" means it fires here and there (like it had
carburator and it was flooded). No check engine lamps are on.

When all this first started I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet
so I sat them on the engine and then turned the ignition key and thei
was so much fuel in the cylinders that every time the piston hit to
dead center the plug fired and their was a flame shooting out of eac
cylinder as if there were to much gas in the cylinders. So I assume
that the plugs and wires needed replaced (the electrodes were worn
because their was not enough spark to burn the fuel
Well it was cold this morning and the damn thing did not start!!!!
have come to the conclusion that when it is really cold out it will no
start. Is their a fuel pressure regulator that would dump to much fue
into the engine when the engine is cold

Maybe between the cold air and to much fuel it IS flooding out? Mayb
that after it sets awhile and I get home from it starts because th
temperature rises?

By the way it has never back fired through the intake or exhaust
Again could it be flooding out???????

--
Dennis

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community at 'TRAVEL.com' (http://forums.TRAVEL.com)
Message Origin: TRAVEL.co
 
The car has always turned over except when I ran the battery down, it
was in need of a new battery so I bought one.

The phrase "almost catch" means it fires here and there (like it had a
carburator and it was flooded). No check engine lamps are on.

When all this first started I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet,
so I sat them on the engine and then turned the ignition key and their
was so much fuel in the cylinders that every time the piston hit top
dead center the plug fired and their was a flame shooting out of each
cylinder as if there were to much gas in the cylinders. So I assumed
that the plugs and wires needed replaced (the electrodes were worn)
because their was not enough spark to burn the fuel.
Well it was cold this morning and the damn thing did not start!!!! I
have come to the conclusion that when it is really cold out it will not
start. Is their a fuel pressure regulator that would dump to much fuel
into the engine when the engine is cold?

Maybe between the cold air and to much fuel it IS flooding out? Maybe
that after it sets awhile and I get home from it starts because the
temperature rises?

By the way it has never back fired through the intake or exhaust.
Again could it be flooding out????????
Click to expand...

Have you taken a code reading from the OBD.?

Joe
 
If you have access to a code reader (or even better, a scanner) check
to see if there are any stored engine trouble codes. If it's a
scanner, also check your coolnat temperature data.

Your dangerous test has proven that you have fuel and spark. So i
think you may well be correct that it's a fuel mixture issue. I'd
suspect the coolant temperature sensor, but I'm not confident enough
that I think you should just replace it without some sort of
verification.
 
The check engine light is now on. I do not have a code reader. M
daughter took her car to Auto Zone and they hooked up a coder and tol
her that Number 2 cylinder was miss firing

--
Dennis

Share your experiences in the forums, blogs, videos, and onlin
community at 'TRAVEL.com' (http://forums.TRAVEL.com)
Message Origin: TRAVEL.co
 
The check engine light is now on. I do not have a code reader. My
daughter took her car to Auto Zone and they hooked up a coder and told
her that Number 2 cylinder was miss firing.
Click to expand...

Why not start from the beginning and write a coherent post. First - state
fully what you are facing and what you are asking. From your post above
(with the stupid subject line leads into the body text...), you have a 1997
Elantra that won't start. You don't have a code reader. Your daughter who
apparently has some other kind of car went to Auto Zone and discovered she
had a Number 2 cylinder misfire. What does that have to do with your car?
What are the sypmtoms when you attempt to start the car?

If you can't provide any better information than this, it's most likely
that a code reader and any advice here isn't going to really help you. You
probably should take your car (and your daughter's car...) to a mechanic.
 
The check engine light is now on. I do not have a code reader. My
daughter took her car to Auto Zone and they hooked up a coder and told
her that Number 2 cylinder was miss firing.
Click to expand...

Presuming we've been talking about your daughter's car to begin with,
if the only DTC present is a P0302, it's more likely to be a
consequence of the problem than an indicator of the cause. Even if
you were getting now power from cylinder #2, the car would still start
pretty much normally (but run very poorly).

May be better to take to a mechanic at this point since you don't have
access to a scanner.
 
Well my 1996 Hyundia Elantra does not have a to much fuel problem now
have a no fuel problem. Again the car did not start the other morning
so I pulled the spark plugs out and expecting to see wet spark plugs
well I did not they were completely dry. I removed the fuel pressur
regulator return line, turn the ignition and got fuel so I guess tha
means that my fuel pump is still working. So their has to be a senso
that tells the injectors how much fuel to inject or not to injec
any?????????
 
Well my 1996 Hyundia Elantra does not have a to much fuel problem now I
have a no fuel problem. Again the car did not start the other morning,
so I pulled the spark plugs out and expecting to see wet spark plugs,
well I did not they were completely dry. I removed the fuel pressure
regulator return line, turn the ignition and got fuel so I guess that
means that my fuel pump is still working. So their has to be a sensor
that tells the injectors how much fuel to inject or not to inject
any??????????
Click to expand...

Having fuel come out of the line is a good indicator for fuel
pressure, but it's not a foolproof one. A pump can be good enough to
pump fuel with little resistance but not good enough to provide the
pressure required to operate the injectors.

The injectors (and spark plugs) are controlled by the engine control
module (ECM). The ECM primarily uses information from the crankshaft
position sensor to determine when to fire the plugs and injectors.
 
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