2000 Elantra Growling....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Never_Enough_Tools
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Never_Enough_Tools

Hi,

My daughters car is a 2000 Elantra....it has a distinct growling from the
front while driving, more pronounced when decelerating. You can pretty much
feel it in the seat of your pants, low rumbly growl....changes with speed.

What am I looking for here ???

TIA

Jeff
 
Never_Enough_Tools said:
Hi,

My daughters car is a 2000 Elantra....it has a distinct growling from the
front while driving, more pronounced when decelerating. You can pretty much
feel it in the seat of your pants, low rumbly growl....changes with speed.

What am I looking for here ???

TIA

Jeff
Click to expand...

Assume it's an automatic tranny?
 
Hmm. Sounds more like a wheel bearing/hub assembly to me. Some Hyundais do
have a history of that.
 
Never_Enough_Tools said:
Yes, Its an Auto....Sorry....
Click to expand...

As suggested, might be bearing.
Or a CV joint...

But, does the sound change when turning one way or the other?

Post as many clues as you can and perhaps Hyundaitech can diagnose
from afar.

Jim
 
Rev. Tom Wenndt said:
Hmm. Sounds more like a wheel bearing/hub assembly to me. Some Hyundais do
have a history of that.
Click to expand...

I agree with Tom, The first thing I'd check is the wheel bearings. Jack
up the front end, then grab one of the wheels at the top and bottom and
see if there's any play in it. If so, the bearing is shot.
 
Brian Nystrom said:
I agree with Tom, The first thing I'd check is the wheel bearings. Jack up
the front end, then grab one of the wheels at the top and bottom and see
if there's any play in it. If so, the bearing is shot.
Click to expand...

However... if you do not feel any play, that is not conclusive evidence that
the wheel bearing and hub assembly is ok in today's front wheel drive
vehicles. It's really hard to diagnose a front hub failure (in its earlier
stages) by lifting the wheels and trying to feel play.

Does the noise get more pronounced when turning right or left? If so, then
likely the bearing/hub on the opposite side of the direction you are turning
is probably bad. If it gets quieter turning in one direction or the other,
then likely the bearing on the side of the turn is bad.

CV joints do not typically fail with groaning noises. They generally give
clicking sounds when turning one direction or the other. Left long enough,
they can develop into other noises, but it is usually hard to get past the
early stage failure sounds.
 
You guys are on track so far. Best is if you can put it on a lift and have
someone drive it while you probe around for the noise source. So far,
though, my money is on hub bearing.
 
hyundaitech said:
You guys are on track so far. Best is if you can put it on a lift and
have
someone drive it while you probe around for the noise source. So far,
though, my money is on hub bearing.
Click to expand...

Thanks Guys,

I can't really check it out at the moment due to weather, But I'll post when
I find out any more....

Any guesses as to what the hub / bearing job would cost???? My book says it
is better left to a shop due to special tools....

Also, is this thing gonna go south quickly ??? She drives to school, no
highway, maybe 10 mi per day........Yes , No, or anyones guess ????

Jeff
 
Hard to say. Most last for quite a while. On the other hand, here's the
story from my personal car.

Saturday -- Noise sounding like hub bearing appears.
Monday -- Noise goes away driving to work.
Thursday -- Change oil and check hub bearings. All appears normal.
Saturday -- Noise returns about 40 miles from work. I attempt to make it
to work and don't. Lots of grinding and squeaking noises, with me driving
*very* slowly once these noises begin. About 35 miles later, wheel
starting to lock up.
Upon disassembly, I find that there are *no* rollers left in the bearing.
ABS tone wheel and wheel speed sensor damaged from rubbing against each
other. Didn't have axle, so I put it together and test drove. Wheel
speed sensor works, but tone wheel is damaged enough to cause ABS to
intermittently engage intermittently when nearly stopped. Replacing axle
fixes issue. Used a cheap reman axle, so it probably still cost me less
than paying the additional mileage on the tow.
 
hyundaitech said:
Hard to say. Most last for quite a while. On the other hand, here's the
story from my personal car.

Saturday -- Noise sounding like hub bearing appears.
Monday -- Noise goes away driving to work.
Thursday -- Change oil and check hub bearings. All appears normal.
Saturday -- Noise returns about 40 miles from work. I attempt to make it
to work and don't. Lots of grinding and squeaking noises, with me driving
*very* slowly once these noises begin. About 35 miles later, wheel
starting to lock up.
Upon disassembly, I find that there are *no* rollers left in the bearing.
ABS tone wheel and wheel speed sensor damaged from rubbing against each
other. Didn't have axle, so I put it together and test drove. Wheel
speed sensor works, but tone wheel is damaged enough to cause ABS to
intermittently engage intermittently when nearly stopped. Replacing axle
fixes issue. Used a cheap reman axle, so it probably still cost me less
than paying the additional mileage on the tow.
Click to expand...
Ouch....hopefully I'll be a little lucky-er.....

Jeff
 
As to your question of price, it depends. If you have a full-blown bearing
hub assembly unit, the part is quite expensive - usually over $100, even
from places like Auto Zone. But they are easy to put on - usually a D.I.Y.
repair.

But I have a hunch the '00 Elantra takes a standard wheel bearing that
includes the spindle and everything else. The part itself (if nothing else
is bad) is much cheaper, but it is a much more complicated repair, best left
to a dedicated tech.

Incidentally, if I am right, and it is a bearing, waste NO TIME getting it
fixed. When they start going bad, they freeze quickly. I am told by some
mechanics that at some point, your wheel could (not necessarily would but
could) fall off, especially in warmer weather. At the very least, it will
(as HyundaiTech described it) start gobbling up other front end parts, to
where the repair gets almost prohibitively expensive, short of finding
another junkyard assembly.

The bearing/hub assembly units will just get louder, and have a little more
forgiveness in them. But as soon as you know what it is, at least if you
are me, usually that provides enough paranoia to get it fixed ASAP.

Hope this helps.
 
The front bearing is separate and is pressed into the knuckle. The rear
bearing is part of the hub and is not serviced separately.
 
hyundaitech said:
The front bearing is separate and is pressed into the knuckle. The rear
bearing is part of the hub and is not serviced separately.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the tips guys....If I get a warm day I'll lift it up and
check for play....

I'm pretty sure I'll end up taking it for repair, but I like to know what
I'm dealing with !!

Jeff
 
Mike said:
However... if you do not feel any play, that is not conclusive evidence that
the wheel bearing and hub assembly is ok in today's front wheel drive
vehicles. It's really hard to diagnose a front hub failure (in its earlier
stages) by lifting the wheels and trying to feel play.
Click to expand...

That's true and I meant to put it in my original post.
 
Never_Enough_Tools said:
Thanks for all the tips guys....If I get a warm day I'll lift it up and
check for play....

I'm pretty sure I'll end up taking it for repair, but I like to know what
I'm dealing with !!
Click to expand...

One last tip. After going through multiple bearing repairs on my old
Excel, I strongly recommend that you get the entire hub assembly instead
of having the bearing fixed. With bearing changes, all it takes is minor
missassembly or a little bit of grit getting into the new bearings (very
easy to do when working under the car) to trash them in hurry (I had one
that failed in less than two weeks after a dealer repair). With the
complete hub, the part is more expensive, but they labor is less and
you're installing a factory sealed unit that's been properly assembled
in a clean environment.
 
Brian Nystrom said:
One last tip. After going through multiple bearing repairs on my old
Excel, I strongly recommend that you get the entire hub assembly instead
of having the bearing fixed. With bearing changes, all it takes is minor
missassembly or a little bit of grit getting into the new bearings (very
easy to do when working under the car) to trash them in hurry (I had one
that failed in less than two weeks after a dealer repair). With the
complete hub, the part is more expensive, but they labor is less and
you're installing a factory sealed unit that's been properly assembled
in a clean environment.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, sounds like the way to go.....

If I get the entire hub assembly, does this make it a DIY job ?? Meaning
no special tools required ???

Thanks again,

Jeff
 
never_enough_tools said:
Thanks Brian, sounds like the way to go.....

If I get the entire hub assembly, does this make it a DIY job ?? Meaning
no special tools required ???
Click to expand...

Yes, that's another advantage that I forgot to mention. You will need to
separate the ball joint, so may need to borrow, buy or rent tools for
that, but they're cheap. Some auto parts stores (Advance comes to mind)
will lend you the tools at no charge.
 
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