2004 Elantra GT Grinding Gears + Other Problems

My 2004 Hyundai Elantra GT (6 months old) has the following problems:

1. Difficult grinding shift into 1st and 2nd (2nd most common)
2. Left and right turn signals suddenly don't work. Lever moves but
no electrical response.
3. High pitched whistle when electrical turned on (before engine is
started) and continues while car is running.
4. Seat continually squeaks

I have brought my car in twice and been to see the manager once. No
action has been taken as of yet on the part of the dealership. They
ordered new 1st and 2nd gears but I have yet to hear back that these
"parts" have come in.

They insist that the squealing and signal issue is the result of the
car started I had put in 4 months after owning the car. They do not
care that I know both happened before the car starter was even a
thought in my mind.

The manager was useless - promised to call me the next day following
up on my missing parts and of course never did. I wish more than
anything I'd shelled out the extra $$ and just gone with Toyota.

I would like to have my car fixed and trade it in as I'm not
interested in hassling with the Hyundai useless staff for the next 5
years (warranty).

Any same mechanical experiences? I am alarmed to see the number of
transimission, grinding gear, clutch cable posts/articles for Hyundai.

Appreciate any similar stories, thanks.
Jennifer

 

There is a fuse that controls this in the interior fusebox. Did you
check and/or replace the fuse? It's not a warrantable repair so if
that's the problem be prepared to pay an exorbitant fee if the dealer
does it for you.

Never heard of this one, but again OK.

And finally, OK.

Have you been proactive? Perhaps called the dealer and checked up on
the status of the parts in question?

Do you have any proof that the squealing started prior to the
installation of the cart starter (whatever that may be, it's not real
clear in your post)? If not, then Hyundai is perfectly OK in stating
it's the culprit - even it it isn't how do they know?

Contact Hyundai USA corporate HQ ON THE PHONE. An e-mail isn't the
way to go here. Let them know your concerns with your dealer and the
service they have or haven't provided to you. You should be very
pleasantly surprised with the result. I've never seen this fail to
get quick and sudden attention from the dealer in question.

You have a bad dealer, but not a bad car. The Corporation stands
behind their car. I've been to five dealers with my car for various
service needs and have never been displeased. One dealer even took my
nonfunctional car in at 2:00 pm and had me out the door less than an
hour later, in my fully functional car, and with no appointment.

It sounds like you just have a bad dealer. I say again: complain to
Corporate. It will make a difference, I promise you.

Of course, I only know your side of the story.

 

3. High pitched whistle when electrical turned on (before engine is

Fuel pump.

 

Why would this not be covered under the warranty? It's 5 years/60K miles
bumper to bumper. The diagnosis of the problem should be covered. The
most the dealer could do is charge for the fuse, if it's considered a
maintenance item.

Try lubing the seat track and tightening the mounting bolts, though
again, this should be covered under the warranty.

Parts generally come in in a day or two, unless there are some really
unusual circumstances. Chances are that you have a crappy dealer who's
jerking you around because they don't want to do warranty work. Complain
directly to Hyundai. In my experience, they are VERY responsive to
consumer complaints and will bend over backward to take care of you.

Regardless, they should troubleshoot the problem, rather than dismissing
it as it appears that they have done. Again, complain to Hyundai.

I agree. Go to Hyundai; they WILL take care of you.

What vehicles? What model years? I had a grinding gear problem with an
'94 Excel, but that's a different transmission. It was never more than
an annoyance, however. The '04 Elantra doesn't have a clutch cable as
the system is hydraulic.

Try not to get paranoid. Problems on older vehicles with different
transmissions and clutches have no bearing on your vehicle. What you
need to know is if anyone with the same car has experienced the same
problems. I suggest that you go to www.elantragtclub.com and
www.elantraxd.com and post your questions on their maintenance forums
(you have to go through a simple joining process designed to eliminate
spam, but it's worth it). There are Hyundai service techs and service
managers on the forums that may be able to assist your.

Also, mention where you're located and the name of the problem dealer
and see if they have any other suggestions. There are people in my area
who've complained about some Boston area dealers, but my dealer in
Nashua, NH has been exemplary. You just need to find a good dealer in
your area.

 

1. Any dealer should be happy to repair your gear grinding issue. If the
parts haven't come in after three days to your dealer, call them and ask
them why not. If they cannot provide a good reason (parts on back-order,
meaning Hyundai doesn't have them available), contact Hyundai Customer
Assistance at the number in your Owner's Information packet.

2. Did the dealer point to a specific reason the aftermarket starter (I'm
presuming remote starter) was preventing your turn signals from working?
Your post makes it sound like they do not work at all at any time any
more. The dealer may wish to have you authorize a fee for diagnostic time
if they legitimately think the problem is caused by the aftermarket
equipment. Hyundai will not pay them to diagnose or repair anything that
is not covered by the warranty. There could be a problem with the solid
state flasher relay or the hazard switch. Or, the dash facia could have
been removed by someone while installing aftermarket equipment and the
hazard switch not plugged back in. While you know this problem occurred
previous to the equipment installation, the dealer does not know this.
They need to be able to check and find the problem and may wish to charge
a diagnostic fee if they believe that the aftermarket equipment caused the
problem. If they maintain that your aftermarket equipment is causing the
problem, they should be able to tell you why, but depending on the amount
of work they need to do to determine this, they may justifiably wish to
charge you for their time in finding this information. If the problem is
a blown fuse, and they can find no cause for the blown fuse, then the fuse
is covered for 12mo/12k miles, not the 5/60 bumper to bumper period. If
the dealer finds that aftermarket equipment caused the fuse to blow, or if
the fuse is not a warranty item for any other reason, then you will be
responsible for the cost of replacing the fuse as well as any necessary
diagnostic work to check for whether something may be causing the fuse to
blow.

3. The whining noise sounds like a fuel pump, but this may be normal.
Did the dealer present any plausible reason they thought this was caused
by your aftermarket equipment? If the dealer thinks this noise is normal
and you disagree, take your car to another dealer, do not mention your
visits to the initial dealer, and let them make up their own mind. You
will then get their honest opinion.

4. The single most common reason for seat squeaking I have seen is only
one of the two seat track latches engaged. This is usually easily solved
by loosening the four seat mounting bolts, sitting in the seat and without
touching the adjuster handle, move forward/back until both tracks are
positively latched, and retightening the bolts. Until then, just sit in
the seat and move forward/back without touching the adjuster handle, and
verify it is securely latched on both tracks. If not, this will probably
correct the issue until the seat is next adjusted.

 

You can also visit the Drivers and Believers website (see URL below) and
join the email-based mailing list there. Lots of owners who would be willing
to discuss and share experiences, although I have not come across anyone
there with the same problems.

 

OK then, why should I have to pay for a new oil, air or fuel filter
when I have to change them? Oh, oh...why should I have to pay to have
them change out my timing belt when the maintenance schedule
recommends it? I mean, I have the extended 10/100,000 bumper to
bumper warranty so that should all be free, right?

Some items are considered consumables and are not covered under
warranty. If a fuse blows, unless the fuse itself is faulty (good
luck proving that) then you have to pay for the fuse, and since it's
not warrantable, the exorbitant fee for the dealer to put it in. Even
if the fuse does blow, the best you could do is ask for reimbursement
from the people who made the fuse.

Now, if the fuse continues to blow, then you could approach Hyundai
and inform of the problem with the electrical system that is
continually blowing the fuse. THAT's a warrantable repair.

 

No, you're being ridiculous, but I suspect you know that.

So, you're saying that the first time is not covered, but subsequent
times would be? By that logic, the first failure of any part wouldn't be
covered unless it was caused by a defective system AND the dealer found
it the first time. So, if a defective oil pump caused a bearing failure
in the engine, you'd have to pay for it the first time if the dealer
didn't find the defective oil pump? Sorry, but I don't buy that logic at
all. That's not how warranties work.

Besides, any decent dealer would check her fuses for her at no charge
(it's the first thing they should check) and replace any that are blown
for the cost of the fuse. That's simply good customer service.

 

I was going over the top, but it was just to prove my point, made in
the next paragraph.

No, I'm not saying they would replace the "fuse" the second time it
blew. Fuses wear out...they blow. It happens and it doesn't mean
there is a defect in the electrical system. If it happen continually
to the same fuse, then that is an indicator that there IS a defect in
the electrical system, which should then be something covered under
warranty.

Ah, but the dealer in the original post was giving HORRIBLE customer
service. Given her description, I have no doubt they would have
charged a high fee for the 10 second task of replacing the fuse.

 

Everyone's comments have been very interesting and I appreciate them.
I agree I am having a crappy dealership experience.

1. After speaking with the manager, my car parts (1st and 2nd gear,
synchros and other bits) suddenly came in after waiting for them one
month and were replaced in two days. Shifting is now working
perfectly.

2. The signals that intermittently stopped working - they determined
I had a faulty hazard light system and ordered a replacement. It was
a relief that they did not try to blame the after market car starter.
Parts are on order.

3. Squeal - the posters are correct in that it is the fuel pump
however the noise is above acceptable and I will pursue that -
possibly with an other dealership for a second opinion. I have never
heard such a squeal in any vehicle I've been in and don't believe I
can live with it.

4. Squeaking seat - I will return to the dealership with a separate
appointment over the squeak though the comments/suggestions in this
post were great.


What I am most concerned about now (not knowing anything about cars)
is the amount of possible damage to clutch/transmission following 6
months of driving with malfunctioning 1st/2nd gears.

Thanks again for the helpful posts.
Jennifer

 

I wouldn't worry about it. You've got a long way to go on the drivetrain
warranty.

 

could be wrong, but I dont beleive the "clutch" is covered under the
drivetrain warranty.....

Pete..

 

Normal wear on the clutch disc isn't, but unusual wear caused by another
warrantable defect should be. My experience is that Hyundai is very
reasonable when it comes to dealing with potentially stickly issues like
this. They actually paid for a transmission rebuild on my Excel when it
was 4,000 miles out of warranty. That's why I wouldn't worry too much.
Besides, unless you routinely abuse your clutch, it should last at least
100,000 miles. I seriously doubt that the problem you described caused
any extra clutch wear.