99 Elantra GLS w/ 4 Wheel disk and ABS: Brake Bleeding Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter ctek1
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ctek1

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I must use the Hyundai scan too
to bleed the brakes or can I just start the car and run the engine t
enable the ABS system?

Also, if I am replacing just the 2 rear calipers, do I need to bleed al
4?

Thanks
 
Prepare the system and the new parts to transfer everything quickly. I
there's a significant delay, you can pinch off the brake hose to preven
excessive fluid loss. (This isn't typically acceptable, but for a DI
repair, it's probably worse to allow the fluid level to get so low yo
start getting air in the upper portion of the lines.) As long as you kee
the fluid level in the master cylinder above the minimum level, you ca
just bleed the two wheels where you did the work. Don't start the car
either. Activation/self-test of the ABS unit can move the fluid around.
Bleed the system like any other car, taking care to be certain the flui
in the master cylinder doesn't get too low
 
hyundaitech said:
Prepare the system and the new parts to transfer everything quickly. If
there's a significant delay, you can pinch off the brake hose to prevent
excessive fluid loss. (This isn't typically acceptable, but for a DIY
repair, it's probably worse to allow the fluid level to get so low you
start getting air in the upper portion of the lines.) As long as you keep
the fluid level in the master cylinder above the minimum level, you can
just bleed the two wheels where you did the work. Don't start the car,
either. Activation/self-test of the ABS unit can move the fluid around.
Bleed the system like any other car, taking care to be certain the fluid
in the master cylinder doesn't get too low.
Click to expand...

A good tip to prevent too much fluid loss is to top the reservoir right up,
and then put some cling-film over the opening, then if you can screw the cap
back on, or else use a elastic band to hold the film. The vacuum over the
top of the fluid then prevents it from leaking out.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the advice, I finally did get to this project and it worke
well. I kept the hose end held high and lost a minimal amount of flui
out of the hose or let the resevoir go low. The only thing I noticed i
that when I drive, the first push on the pedal goes down further than th
second or subsequent presses. It is solid, not "spongy", just more trave
on the pedal. Not all the way to the floor, but it is noticeable. Th
car has 127k miles on it. Could that be a master cyl. problem or do yo
think there is air still in the line
 
It's more likely that something is pushing the caliper piston in too far.
Check to make sure that the pads aren't hanging up and that the pad shim
aren't catching on the caliper
 
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