Accent engine hesitation

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theta00k

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My friend's accent has a problem with engine hestitation at low rpms. When you step on the gas below 2500-300 rpm, it goes chug-chug-chug-chug and has no power. While driving, this also causes a jerky effect. The spark plugs are new. Is this a common problem? I heard the ignition system has frequent failures, so could this likely be the cause of it?
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What year Accent?
 
My friend's accent has a problem with engine hestitation at low rpms. When you step on the gas below 2500-300 rpm, it goes chug-chug-chug-chug and has no power. While driving, this also causes a jerky effect. The spark plugs are new. Is this a common problem? I heard the ignition system has frequent failures, so could this likely be the cause of it?
 
When was the gas filter changed, ignition wires,fuel injection attended to? Timing chain? etc.....
 
I have same problem. I drive Accent GL, 2001, four door sedan. When I am starting, say in the morning, it behaves strangely initial few minutes, it does not move; I feel like some one is simply holding the car behind, then after one min I feel a sudden rush of gas (although I didnt not press further) and then a jerk and then slowly speed up and I can distinctly feel its trying hard to change gear. It takes around 5-6 min before everything becomes normal and then it runs fine.

Is it because of engine temperature? Right now I am living in Worcester, MA, USA and we have 34-36 F in morning.

Sudip

My friend's accent has a problem with engine hestitation at low rpms. When you step on the gas below 2500-300 rpm, it goes chug-chug-chug-chug and has no power. While driving, this also causes a jerky effect. The spark plugs are new. Is this a common problem? I heard the ignition system has frequent failures, so could this likely be the cause of it?
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Sudip Bhattacharjee
Ph.D. Student
Pavement Research Group
Civil Engineering
Worcester Polytechnic Institute
100 Institute Road
Worcester, MA-01609, USA
Tell: 508-831-5011 (off)
508-831-6034 (asphalt lab)
508=831-6134 (graduate computer lab)
 
I have same problem. I drive Accent GL, 2001, four door sedan. When I am starting, say in the morning, it behaves strangely initial few minutes, it does not move; I feel like some one is simply holding the car behind, then after one min I feel a sudden rush of gas (although I didnt not press further) and then a jerk and then slowly speed up and I can distinctly feel its trying hard to change gear. It takes around 5-6 min before everything becomes normal and then it runs fine.

Is it because of engine temperature? Right now I am living in Worcester, MA, USA and we have 34-36 F in morning.
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Look up these shops in the phone book, call the nearest one from your home to schedule an appointment, take your car to the shop to have it diagnosed.

Auto Diagnostics Inc
Auto Doctor
AutoPro Import Repair
Chadwick Sq. Texaco
P & P motors
S+o Auto Inc.
 
My friend's accent has a problem with engine hestitation at low rpms. When you step on the gas below 2500-300 rpm, it goes chug-chug-chug-chug and has no power. While driving, this also causes a jerky effect. The spark plugs are new. Is this a common problem? I heard the ignition system has frequent failures, so could this likely be the cause of it?
Click to expand...

Check engine light on? Flashing at anytime, like during acceleration?

Car recently died suddenly?

Beebo
 
Nothing wrong when running, no warning lights. Everything is normal, only it just does not want to move at starting. I guess its purely temperature related problem, because after few hours of running, it starts smoothly w/o any problem.

I suppose Accent GLs are manufactured in Koria. Can any one give me an idea what specifications they use, whether they follow US standards or not.
 
If the check engine light isn't on, or flashing during acceleration, I would say that rules out any serious ignition problems, or air/fuel delivery problems.

Check the timing and see if its steady at 5o BTDC or have a shop check for you. Minimal cost there, but it will tell you if you have any misses or if its a timing issue and its just not serious enough to trigger the Check Engine Light.

Does it do this with the car in park or neutral with the accelerator pressed as well as normal driving speeds?

Beebo
 
Since this is a 1995, it doesn't have obdII misfire monitoring. The computer won't detect an ignition problem unliss it's on the primary side. The timing is not adjustable and won't remain steady because the computer is constantly adjusting it.

The description sounds exactly like an ignition misfire. I'd be checking the coil, wires, plugs. Check the plugs and wires especially for a carbon track down the porcelain of the plug and inside the wire boot. Spray down the wires with water and see if there is any arcing. If you don't find anything abnormal above, you may be looking at a weak sparking coil.
 
There are several ecm reflashes for this condition on a 2001 Accent. You may wish to take the vehicle to the dealer for them to check. It may not have the latest update.
 
Thanks. I found in my search that these coil packs fail often. I'll be checking that out. Plugs are new, wires aren't. If the coils are bad, wouldn't that show up as a weak or intermittent spark? I was planning to remove the wires one at a time and check the spark on each cylinder. Other than that, I don't know how to test a coil with any certainty.
 
Since this is a 1995, it doesn't have obdII misfire monitoring. The computer won't detect an ignition problem unliss it's on the primary side. The timing is not adjustable and won't remain steady because the computer is constantly adjusting it.

The description sounds exactly like an ignition misfire. I'd be checking the coil, wires, plugs. Check the plugs and wires especially for a carbon track down the porcelain of the plug and inside the wire boot. Spray down the wires with water and see if there is any arcing. If you don't find anything abnormal above, you may be looking at a weak sparking coil.
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Doh!

Thanks for setting me straight!

I have a 96 Accent and I'm going through similar problems, so I thought I could help the guy out by going over the first phase of troubleshooting I went through.

Now perhaps you could help with my problem?

1996 Accent
1.5l SOHC Alpha engine
126k miles

My check engine light is on with the following codes stored:
P1123
P0304
P0302

Car idles ok, but misfires and runs rough at normal driving speed. Lots of jerking and kicking at times (like a bad tranny) . Not consistently though. Same type of hesitation as the OP described.

I've replaced my plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil (even though the coil resistance was within spec according to hmaservice.com, just in case there was an intermittent problem with it).

Checked for vacuum leaks.

I've checked the resistance of my Throttle Position Sensor, between terminal 2 & 3 and I get a reading of 1.9 kohms. Out of spec or within tolerance?

I would assume if my MAF, TPS or other sensor had gone bad, I would see a relevant trouble code stored as well, but I don't.

I'm completely stumped.

/pray
Please don't let it be my ECM....

Beebo
 
Can you tell me what can cause a jerking action during drive? I have Accent GL, 2001, 37,700 miles. I get no warning lights. I get a slow start when i start after a long idle engine, e.g. in morning. I feels like it does not move, something is holding it behind. Again I get no warning lights. It becomes easy in few minutes when engine gets hot. But jerking actions during drive remains. Whats the problem?

Sudip
 
P0302 and P0304 represent misfires on cylinders 2 and 4, respectively. P1123 is a rich fuel trim code. So far, you've hit on all the likely points that would cause misfire and dump fuel into exhaust. I'd tend to rule out TPS, MAF and such because they would affect all cylinders equally.

Does this engine have an egr? I can't remember. I've seen egr valves stuck open causing misfire codes. Apparently the egr passages are such that it adds exhaust to some cylinders more than others.

If you're satisfied everything above is ok, I'd recommend checking compression and/or switching the #2 and #4 injectors with the #1 and #3 injectors. If you clear the codes and the lamp returns with P0301 and P0303, then you know it was the injectors. You can try similar strategies with the plugs and wires (if they reach) if you are not sure of their quality. I will say that some brands of aftermarket plugs have been especially troublesome and nearly all aftermarket wires have been junk based on what I have seen.
 
P0302 and P0304 represent misfires on cylinders 2 and 4, respectively. P1123 is a rich fuel trim code. So far, you've hit on all the likely points that would cause misfire and dump fuel into exhaust. I'd tend to rule out TPS, MAF and such because they would affect all cylinders equally.

Does this engine have an egr? I can't remember. I've seen egr valves stuck open causing misfire codes. Apparently the egr passages are such that it adds exhaust to some cylinders more than others.

If you're satisfied everything above is ok, I'd recommend checking compression and/or switching the #2 and #4 injectors with the #1 and #3 injectors. If you clear the codes and the lamp returns with P0301 and P0303, then you know it was the injectors. You can try similar strategies with the plugs and wires (if they reach) if you are not sure of their quality. I will say that some brands of aftermarket plugs have been especially troublesome and nearly all aftermarket wires have been junk based on what I have seen.
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Nope, no EGR valve...

Switched the injectors....same codes as before.

And replaced the wires with OEM wires from the dealership today.
Plus were NGK plugs..

While I was at the dealership, I had them pull the codes and run a bit of troubleshooting for me.

They came up with the same responses you did.

Not the TPS, MAF or the ignition coil.

I may have left out a large chunk of relevant information that may help...

The tech noticed my car is burning oil. I've had the compression tested and the previous mechanic said that the results indicated my oil rings were most likely fine, but I most likely need a valve job as oil was leaking into the combustion chamber.

Pulling my plugs, we noticed they're fouling out.

His theory:

The plugs are fouling out and causing the non-burned fuel/air mixture to be dumped. When this mixture hits the O2 sensor, it triggers the P1123 too rich code. The ECM tries to compensate by adjusting the timing to get a more efficient burn, which explains the timing jumping around so much.

So, fix the oil leak and fix the problem?

Or not plausible?

I'm going to take the care into either another shop, or back to the dealership to have the compression rechecked.

Any situation that you can think of in which the compression checks out fine but it may still be the oil rings?

$300 for a valve job I can stomach.

$1500 for a rebuild, I dunno about.

Car just isn't worth that much.

(*** On a side note, the dealership didn't even charge me for the 30-45 min the tech spent on looking at the car! I was impressed as I was ready to fork over the $70 just so I'd know from a reliable source what the !$#@ my problem was!)
 
Sounds like they've done a good job. Chances are, if you fix the oil leak, you also fix everything else. Also sounds like you have a major problem. You're either looking at a valve stem seal issue or a ring issue. If you have no blue smoke present on cold starts or after idling for a significant period of time, you're likely looking at a lower end issue. It sounds to me like unless this car is in exceptional shape, the repairs will be too much for a 1996 Accent. Then again, I work in the high rent district. The prices you listed seem very low to me.
 

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