Driver-side power door lock failing

....On my '06 Sonata GLS. The other doors appear to be working fine,
so I assume it's not my keychain.

Just curious what this will cost me to repair...parts n' labor.

 

Does the same thing occur when using the lock button on the door?

Does the lock knob move at all when attempting to use the power lock/
unlock feature, or does it just sit there dead no matter whether
you're trying to lock or unlock?

If you're under 60,000 miles, it'll cost you nothing. If outside the
warranty period, cost will vary greatly depending on where you have
the work done and by geographic location. Answers to the above
questions will help me tell you the specific item that will need to be
repaired, enabling you to get estimates from places near you.

 

Hey thanks Hyundaitech.

The lock button inside the car will lock all doors. The knob does
move freely. I'd like to have it done at the Hyundai in Lewiston, ID
or Logan, UT.

 

Oh, and I'm only at 40K miles.

 

Are you also within the the Time Period of the
warranty? My power door locks failed at only 40 K miles
but outside the warranty period by about two weeks. The miserable
local Hyandai dealer would not do the work, found out later this has
been a known wiring fault on Elantras.
This will influence my buying choice in the future, both as regards
car and/or dealer.

 

Since it's an '06 with 40k miles, you're within the 5 year/60k
warranty. Take it for warranty service.

As for the symptoms, I'm becoming confused. Are you saying the
driver's door won't lock with remote but will with the power lock
button on the door? Looking at the schematic, that doesn't look
possible.

Also, I understand that the lock knob moves freely. What I want to
know is, when you're attempting to lock/unlock with the remote or door
lock switch, does the lock knob move at all or does it stay completely
still? See the thread below where a similar issue is discussed.

 

Ahhh okay. Well to answer your first question if / when the remote
doesn't work, neither does the interior power-door lock button.

Second, when the remote fails, the knob stands completely still.

 

If the you cannot feel the knob move at all when attempting to
activate, then this doesn't rule out electrical issues such as BCM,
relays, and wiring. Since your car is still within the warranty
period, we can estimate the cost at $0, but it'll need to be checked
to determine the actual issue. Even so, I'll put my money on the door
lock actuator. Have seen very few door lock electrical issues on '06
and newer Sonatas.

 

I have an 06 Sonata with about 40K miles that seems to have the same issue
on the left rear door. The remote or the internal power lock button
triggers the other three doors fine, but the left rear one will "twitch" a
little, but not a full swing. Manually moving the lock/unlock button on
the door itself works fine, but then when I do the power lock, the lever on
the door will only partially move.

Does the 5 yr/60K limit still apply if I'm not the original owner? We
bought it used from the dealer (it had been a turned in lease)

Mike O.

 

Warranty (5/60) still applies. Since you can see it move a little,
you've just confirmed that everything electrical is in working order.
You'll need a door latch assembly.

 

Wow, looks like 06 Sonata's had a problem. This is yet another one after my
initial post!

Warranty (5/60) still applies. Since you can see it move a little,
you've just confirmed that everything electrical is in working order.
You'll need a door latch assembly.

 

I called the dealer yesterday and dropped of the car this morning to look
at the door and the ABS light issue (I mentioned in another posting). For
the ABS light, I told him that I had done checking on the internet and that
it sounded like it was the issue mentioned in the TSB about the brake light
switch and was either on a recall, or probably was going to be soon (thanks
HyundaiTech!). He said he didn't think the ABS warning light was part of
that problem, but he would check.

A few hours later they called and said it was all done, no charge. On the
work order, it said "Stop lamp switch switch assembly replacement per
factory bulletin".. They also replaced the door latch and actuator.

Just curious, when the switch was failing and the ABS light was coming on,
was it also affecting my rear brake lights? It happened to intermittently
I didn't think to check.

Thanks again.

Mike O.

 

Yes. The ABS/ESC system monitors master cylinder pressure and brake
lamp switch output. If they don't agree, the warning lamps illuminate
and ABS and ESC are deactivated (since the ESC module cannot
conclusively tell when the brakes are applied).

 

So the faulty switch had the system thinking the brakes were being applied,
but since the system didn't see the cylinder pressure change that would go
with the brakes being applied, it triggered the warning?

 

Or vice versa: the ESC/ABS module saw a pressure reading but no signal
from the switch.

 

Following this thread. My wife has a 2006 Hyundai Sonata. The driver’s side door lock works sometimes with the key fob, and sometimes not. My larger concern, is that sometimes she leaves the car, thinking it’s locked, but it isn’t. Or, she may return to the car, and not be able to get in, because the drivers door lock is not unlocking. The fix appears to be to replace the entire latch assembly? How much is that going to cost me in Florence SC? It seems like, since sometimes it works fine, it might just need some lubrication??

 

I would try the lubrication thing first
Before changing the latch assembly or lock actuator