Elantra and synthetic oil

I've read a few old threads about synthetic oil, but I wanted to ask current users about it. I recently saw an ad for Mobil1 oil that claimed engines showed no wear after two hundred thousand miles. That sounds pretty outrageous - what do they mean? I'd appreciate hearing from folks that have used synthetic oil. Does it dramatically reduce engine wear? How many miles can you go between changes? Is it worth the extra cost compared with regular oil changed more often? Etc.

VS

 

I just switched my EGT over to 5W-30 synthetic. It's the first car I've
done this with. We'll see if it makes a difference in 100,000 miles or
so. ;-)

Synthetic oils flow better and therefore circulate faster on startup.
Because they're thinner, you'll get a bit better fuel mileage,
especially in cold weather.

The cost of synthetics doesn't have to be much - if any - more than
"dinosaur" oil. Probably the best deal on the market is the SuperTech
Full Synthetic that Walmart sells. As the name states, it's a full
synthetic oil (not a blend), just like the big brand names. It's blended
by a well known commercial blender (Warren) that produces oils for many
other companies. I've seen analyses of it, but new and used, and it's on
par with other synthetic oils. The major difference is that it sells
~$12 for a 5 quart jug, vs. $20-$22 for the major brands. That's less
than twice the price of major brand "dino" oils. If you change the
synthetic half as often (a realistic expectation) it actually costs less.

 

I have used synthetic in my last 2 vehicles. Never has oil related failures
in either (Ford and Dodge) at over 100,000 mi each. Other things went, like
water pumps, starters, fuel pumps, but never the lubricated parts of any
motor. Changed every 5000 miles on each

I've read a few old threads about synthetic oil, but I wanted to ask current
users about it. I recently saw an ad for Mobil1 oil that claimed engines
showed no wear after two hundred thousand miles. That sounds pretty
outrageous - what do they mean? I'd appreciate hearing from folks that have
used synthetic oil. Does it dramatically reduce engine wear? How many
miles can you go between changes? Is it worth the extra cost compared with
regular oil changed more often? Etc.

VS

 

Speaking of Walmart... The Walmart near a relatives house does oil
changes. For $27, you get an oil and filter change with the synthetic
brand of your choice. For "full service" which includes top off other
fluids and check some things, it is $3 more. It is not bulk oil either
as they get the bottles and filters right off the store shelf and they
give you what is left over from the last bottle. I chose Castrol which
at $4.70/qt would be over $25 with tax by itself. Not bad for $31.xx
after tax total and 1/2 qt left in a bottle placed in the trunk. I know
Jiffy Lube and the similar drive thru places charge almost the same
amount for a no name filter and unknown dino oil from a drum. I'm sure
those filters and oil are acceptable but not for the same price as
synthetic.
On the flip side. Walmart did get something back as I ended up spending
almost $60 in other general stuff I picked up in the store waiting the
30 minutes or so for them to finish my car.

Back to the original subject.

A great place to read about sythetic vs regular oil is here:
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/chemicalbreakdown.htm
This site promotes Amsoil brand oil (which I've never used) but the same
concepts apply to all sythetics vs. all regular oils.

My Elantra is not old yet but my Mustang is. I've generally have been
changing the oil about every 3500 miles and I use a mixture of synthetic
and regular oil (50% each). If a single company that makes a sythetic
blend would actually put the % of each oil that makes up the "blend",
I'd compare and might consider buying it instead. I've got 150K miles
on it now and although it burns a little more then it used too, it still
runs and sounds perfect. If I ever have to tear it down. I'll report
back what it looks like inside

And finally. Thanks for the tip. I normally do the changes myself and I
will check out the Supertech brand.

 

After switching to synthetic oil is it necessary to continue using it for the life of the vehicle?

 

After switching to synthetic oil is it necessary to continue using it for
the life of the vehicle?

No.

 

There is a lot of myth and superstition regarding oil, synthetic in
particular. Synth and "dino" oils are completely compatible and you can
even mix them, which is what the "synthetic blend" oils on the market are.

 

I have switched from dino oil to synthetic on my new XG350L. I wish I
had done it years ago. I always changed my oil every 3 months or 3000
miles and religiously used 5W30 Valvoline with a Fram filter in my
last new car. It ran OK but during the cold winters when starting I
could hear the lifters until it warmed up. As it passed 25,000 miles
it started using a quart between changes and when I sold it at 88,000
miles it was using two quarts using the "high-mileage" Valvoline 5W30.

I am a former mechanic who had to change his filed of work due to
back problems but I still try to do as much of my own mechanical work
as possible including doing my own brakes, struts, heater cores, water
pumps, serpentine belts, etc. In my seven years of working full time
on cars I figure I must have changed the oil on about 10,000 cars and
trucks (oh man do I hate diesels!).

I calculated my oil change costs averaging about $7-8 dollars per oil
change doing it myself and buying the oil and filters on sale in bulk.

My new car has only seen Mobil 1 and Mobil I oil filters since it's
first oil change after breaking the engine in at 2,500 miles. I now
change my oil myself every 5000 miles and do not bother tracking time
as the synthetic does not degrade and the Mobil 1 filter has synthetic
media that filters very well. I could probably stretch it to 7500
miles between changes but I am conservative and baby my engine. My oil
change costs have increased to about $32.00 per change ($4.50 per
quart for 4.5 quarts plus $11 for the filter plus $.65 for the drain
plug washer) as I still do it myself but I know this engine is
getting much better care than the old one and since I am doing it much
less often it doesn't work out to much more cost for superior
protection. I never hear the lifters in the winter and it gets very
cold here nor do I ever see the low pressure idiot light come on. Even
after a change the idiot light goes out more quickly than in my old
car. My wife's car is driving 25,000 a year and it is using the exact
same oil and filter as I do (it's a Mitsubishi 3.0 liter and the
Hyundai engine is (licensed) from Mitsubishi so I was able to buy in
bulk for both cars saving a few bucks.

I have run most of my cars well over 100,000 miles on dino oil yet I
would not go back after changing to synthetic. I do recommend letting
the car break in on it's original oil for the manufacturers
recommended interval but after that use synthetic and a premium filter
changing both every oil change.

I can absolutely recommend Mobil 1 oil plus the Mobil 1 filter. Yes
it's slightly more expensive but absolutely worth it in the long run
no matter how you drive but especially if you fall into the severe
duty driving range.

Good luck!

 

Thanks to everyone for the informative responses.

wanted to ask current users about it. I recently saw an ad
for Mobil1 oil that claimed engines showed no wear after two
hundred thousand miles. That sounds pretty outrageous -
what do they mean? I'd appreciate hearing from folks that
have used synthetic oil. Does it dramatically reduce engine
wear? How many miles can you go between changes? Is it
worth the extra cost compared with regular oil changed more
often? Etc.

 

How would we know this, other than tearing the engine apart and using a
micrometer to measure every internal part?

One simply has to understand its viscosity characteristics and believe that
it is better for your engine. For one thing it is far better against
viscosity breakdown and also variations in viscosity with temperature. This
makes it a "must" for high performance (as in race) engines. One could then
say if the oil is good enough for those engines then it must be also even
better for mine.

The next step is to justify the price. Brian Nystrom raised some great
points in his post following, esp. regarding the Wal-Mart Synthetic oil,
which provided it has the latest API rating, should be better than mineral
oil. However from what I have read Mobil 1 is a superior product (from many
technical aspects) and is probably justified in the higher price.

I have been using Mobil 1 in my Elantra GT since 2500 miles and am very
pleased.

Everyone's experience and preferences may vary. All I know is, synthetic is
better for your engine than mineral oil and is cheap insurance for your
valued possession. If you can afford the $22 for the 5 quarts of Mobil 1
then it is money well spent.

I still go by the manufacturer's recommended schedule, which for my driving
regime, is 7500 miles between changes. That takes me about 8 months to reach
..... more than enough time to save my pennies for the Mobil 1.

 

I knew I forgot something in my first reply to this thread ....

If you change your oil yourself it works out just as cheap as taking it to
some shops to do it for you. In my case, the filter is $4 (genuine Hyundai
for warranty purposes) and the Mobil 1 is $20 or so (Wal-Mart, on special).
I don't need to buy washers since I have a Fumoto valve. Total cost with
taxes .... about $25, and the oil change is done hot and done right. That
compares very favourably with most shops doing an oil change and 'topping up
fluids' etc.

At the end of the day, for the same money you get a much better oil in your
car.

For those interested in the installation of a Fumoto valve on their car, see
the garage pages of my Elantra GT website. The URL is below.

 

The warranty does not require you to use Hyundai filters. However, since
the price isn't outrageous, there's no reason not to do so if it's
convenient. Personally, I prefer the Purolator Pure One and will be
switching to a slightly oversize filter at my next oil change, their
#PL24458 (the stock filter is #PL14459).

 

It's rated API SL/CF and "Meets or exceeds the latest North American and
European new vehicle warranty requirements API SL/CF, ILSAC GF-3. ACEA
A1-98, Corvette, Viper and previous API gasoline engine classifications
SJ, SH."

In other words, it's certified to be good stuff.

There are two diffent types of synthetic oils. One starts in a lab with
completely synthetic ingredients (group 4 base stock) created "from the
ground up", so to speak (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple). The other
starts with petroleum (group 3 base stock) that is refined and modified
until it meets the same standards. It seems to be two different ways to
reach the same goal and I have yet to see any scientific evidence that
one method is superior to the other.

I assume that Super Tech Full Synthetic is of the latter type, since
it's less expensive to manufacture. Most other synthetic oils (Castrol,
Valvoline, Penzoil) are as well.