Elantra wheel alignment - camber cannot be adjusted?

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Victek

I had a wheel alignment done (Elantra GLS 2003) and learned that camber is
less then optimal on all four wheels, but cannot be adjusted. I was also
told there are after-market kits that make it possible to adjust camber, but
they are expensive. This wasn't a pitch to sell the kits - the mechanic was
just giving me information, but now I'm curious if it would be a good idea.
I have the computer print-out of the before & after alignment specs, but I
don't know if the degree of deviation is significant or not. Any thoughts
about this?
 
I had a wheel alignment done (Elantra GLS 2003) and learned that camber is
less then optimal on all four wheels, but cannot be adjusted.  I was also
told there are after-market kits that make it possible to adjust camber, but
they are expensive.  This wasn't a pitch to sell the kits - the mechanic was
just giving me information, but now I'm curious if it would be a good idea.
I have the computer print-out of the before & after alignment specs, but I
don't know if the degree of deviation is significant or not.  Any thoughts
about this?
Click to expand...

Unless you're significantly out of spec (at least 50%) or having
handling issues, it's probably not worth the expense. Camber will
only affect tire wear in a minor way. Typical front camber kits
involve smaller diameter strut to knuckle attaching bolts to enable
play to move the top of the knuckle in or out. Typical rear camber
kits involve placing a shim between the wheel hub and its mount to
achieve the desired angle.
 
Victek said:
I had a wheel alignment done (Elantra GLS 2003) and learned that camber is
less then optimal on all four wheels, but cannot be adjusted. I was also
told there are after-market kits that make it possible to adjust camber, but
they are expensive. This wasn't a pitch to sell the kits - the mechanic was
just giving me information, but now I'm curious if it would be a good idea.
I have the computer print-out of the before & after alignment specs, but I
don't know if the degree of deviation is significant or not. Any thoughts
about this?
Click to expand...

THX for that info. Cheap design/construction IMO.
I'll avoid that model.
 
You are probably right about being cheap, unfortunately I,m told almost all
cars including Japanese have deleted this adjustment. I suspect the build
accuracy and alignment of structures is a lot more accurate than it was
30 -40 years ago which made more "adjustments" necessary.
 
THX for that info. Cheap design/construction IMO.
I'll avoid that model.
Click to expand...

Ease up on your opinion some. This is very common in today's front ends,
where "out of spec" does not mean what it used to mean. Nobody really uses
a camber adjustment anymore because this "out of spec" issue is of such
little consequence as to be ignored. For those who do get really concerned
about this kind of thing, enlarging (elongating) the holes in the strut
where it mounts the steering knuckle can usually provide the few degrees of
adjustment required to hit dead on. You'll never notice that in your
driving or in your tire wear, but for some people, they just can't sleep at
night when they hear "out of spec".
 
Mike Marlow said:
Ease up on your opinion some. This is very common in today's front ends,
where "out of spec" does not mean what it used to mean. Nobody really
uses
a camber adjustment anymore because this "out of spec" issue is of such
little consequence as to be ignored. For those who do get really
concerned
about this kind of thing, enlarging (elongating) the holes in the strut
where it mounts the steering knuckle can usually provide the few degrees
of
adjustment required to hit dead on. You'll never notice that in your
driving or in your tire wear, but for some people, they just can't sleep
at
night when they hear "out of spec".


--
Click to expand...
Thanks to everyone for the helpful information.
 
I had a similar run in at the Kia dealer (brother to Hyundai) where I was
getting tires for life...... They said that they couldn't reach the
'in-spec' camber and I would have to buy those nice expensive camber bolts
if I wanted to maintain my 'tires for life'. I told the guy in front of a
packed waiting room that he had me 'by the balls and what else could I do
but pay them?' Got it fixed and a month later the bastards closed their
doors.................. 'Tires for life - of the
dealer'..........................
 
Many vehicles require caster, camber and toe, the two main factors of tire wear are camber and toe. Toe is the tires pointing in/out/left right etc with toe being out of specs the tires will wear premature. Camber is the strut leaning in or out and camber will wear tires, many vehicles do require camber bolts, kits to properly adjust the specifications. If you were recommended to have them done many car manufacturers do not allow for the camber or even toe to be adjusted unless you repair the problem with these kits. Example today I did a tire on a 2015 Hyundai accent with 7423 miles, the right front camber specs were off and because the rear has a straight axle system image just a piece of metal from left to right with no adjustment for the toe. There is a shim kit to allow for this adjustment that would be installed. The front will require a shim to accurately adjust the front camber. This is a 2015 new car although this is what the consumer buys and the dealership is not going to tell you thee specs because you will not know until something happens where you need an alignment just like this 2015, her tire blew from a nail and I did an alignment check to see if it was out, I was only able to adjust the toe. Many new cars were there tires out in 15k to 25k miles because the alignment is not always correct form factory. Not all vehicles are like this or require shims, camber bolts but if your vehicle reuires them, it is in the best interest to have it done and save on tire expenses. Gabriel V.
 
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