Electrical Prob. '95 Hyundai Sonata, no fire

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nehmo
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Nehmo

Driving down the road, the winshild wippers went very fast (although
they were off), then the engine failed.
The 100 amp fuse is blown, but now repalced it doesn't blow. Also the
stop light fuse was blown, but when I replace that, the key doesn't
come out. I pull out the fuse and the key will come out.
I'm not getting spark, and, of course, the car won't start.
The black/white wire from the ignition to the coil is hot as it should
be. Anybody with any ideas, call 913 602 6009 or post. I'm only
borowing this connection, and I have to end now.
What's my next step? What should I check next? And I can't take the
car anywhere.*I* have to fix it.
Thanks, Nehmo
 
Driving down the road, the winshild wippers went very fast (although
they were off), then the engine failed.
The 100 amp fuse is blown, but now repalced it doesn't blow. Also the
stop light fuse was blown, but when I replace that, the key doesn't
come out. I pull out the fuse and the key will come out.
      I'm not getting spark, and, of course, the car won't start.
The black/white wire from the ignition to the coil is hot as it should
be. Anybody with any ideas, call 913 602 6009 or post. I'm only
borowing this connection, and I have to end now.
What's my next step? What should I check next? And I can't take the
car anywhere.*I* have to fix it.
Thanks, Nehmo

Did any of these problems exist prior to the windshield wiper problem?

Does the check engine lamp illuminate when the key is turned to the
"on" position?

Did the air bag lamp come on?

Wipers, engine management, stop lamps/key interlock don't have much to
do with each other. Possible overvoltage from alternator killing
numerous electrical/electronic devices.
 
Did any of these problems exist prior to the windshield wiper problem?

Does the check engine lamp illuminate when the key is turned to the
"on" position?

Did the air bag lamp come on?

Wipers, engine management, stop lamps/key interlock don't have much to
do with each other.  Possible overvoltage from alternator killing
numerous electrical/electronic devices.

The ignition modual (power transtor?) above the spark coil seemed to
fail a bench test. Unfortunately, I'm not confident of the way a store
clerk tested it.
I'll look at the engine management light.
Nehmo
 
The ignition modual (power transtor?) above the spark coil seemed to
fail a bench test. Unfortunately, I'm not confident of the way a store
clerk tested it.
I'll look at the engine management light.
Nehmo

I've never seen one fail. Doesn't mean yours isn't defective, though.

Also, still interested in answers to previous questions.
 
I've never seen one fail.  Doesn't mean yours isn't defective, though.

Also, still interested in answers to previous questions.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I didn't notice anything about the engine management light, but the
previous owner of the car said it was "trying" to come on. I think he
meant blinking occasionally.

I've now taken out the alternator. The local Advanced Auto (parts
store) can't test it, so I'm sending it out to test.
The retail price for an alternator is $146 + tax.

From the large fuse in the engine fuse box, a 90 amp was in there that
blew, 2 wires go out directly to, and only to, the large bolt
connector on the alternator. Are 2 wires normal? It seems one large
wire would do the job, but I suppose there is nothing wrong with 2.

However, I'm wondering if I replace it, maybe something else is wrong
and I might short out the new alternator. I need to test that ignition
module somewhere else too.

Thanks for helping me. I don't have anyone else who knows anything to
turn to. And I don't even have internet access (I'm in a library). The
phone is dead to, but a message can be left for me at 913 621 4046.
Leave the message for Nehmo.

-- Nehmo
 
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