Error code 43 EGR system

B

Boomerang

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After I read out the computer from my 94 excel I get the following error code: 43 EGR system

Any suggestions how to solve this problem?
 
Are the other error codes gone now?
If so, check the temperature sensor in your EGR valve. The common problem is that it goes open and the computer sees something like -50C. I have no resistance specs, but the scan tool reading has always taken me right to the problem.
 
Yes, the rest of the fault codes are gone so far. I'll see if I can check the temperature sensor. I'm not a supermechanic :D
 
Can you tell me how I can check if the EGR valve is still working. I checked the vacuum hose and that one is sucking air if I set the engine to 2500 rpm. But how can I see if the valve opens or closes correctly?
 
Boomerang said:
Can you tell me how I can check if the EGR valve is still working. I checked the vacuum hose and that one is sucking air if I set the engine to 2500 rpm. But how can I see if the valve opens or closes correctly?
Click to expand...

With the engine off and cold, see if you can get your fingers near the stem of the valve and lift up the diaphragm to open it up. When it's open, use another finger or thumb to plug the nipple that the vacuum hose was connected to. With it plugged, the valve should remain open when you release the diaphragm, and it should snap shut when you remove your finger from the nipple. This means that the rubber diaphragm is in good shape and will respond to vacuum.

Now start the engine, let it idle, and before it gets too hot, reach in and open the EGR valve again by hand. If it's working properly, the engine should sputter and/or stall, because of the excess exhaust your letting back into the engine intake. If the valve is clogged with carbon, nothing will happen when you open the valve.

Bob
 
Can you tell me how I can lift up the diaphragm? The only thing I see is a solid metal cylinder/ball with a connection to the vacuum hose at the top and a connection to a sensor at the bottom of the cylinder. I don't see any part that can move. Can you tell me how I can see if the diaphragm moves or not.
 
Boomerang said:
Can you tell me how I can lift up the diaphragm? The only thing I see is a solid metal cylinder/ball with a connection to the vacuum hose at the top and a connection to a sensor at the bottom of the cylinder. I don't see any part that can move. Can you tell me how I can see if the diaphragm moves or not.
Click to expand...

I'm more familiar with the older style without the sensor, but they should be pretty similar. The complete valve has a brass upper section with the vac hose connection that you mention, and a cast iron lower section that has the two bolts that hold it to the manifold.

There should be a space between the two big enough to get your fingers into, and you should be able to feel both the diaphragm and the stem that controls the valve. A flat blade screwdriver may also fit in there. Just put your fingers in there and lift it up a quarter inch.

If the design has changed to accommodate the sensor, you can just attach a piece of vac hose to the connection and suck on it to see if the diaphragm is intact. If it is, and if your lungs are strong enough, try it with the engine running to open the valve and stall the engine. Otherwise, use a vacuum pump or another source of vacuum at idle from the engine itself.

Bob
 

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