Fuel for 2006 Sonata V6

  • Thread starter Thread starter Old_Timer
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Old_Timer wrote in
Who can tell me? Does the 2006 Sonata V6 require premium fuel??

Old_Timer

Nope. Good old regular with an octane rating of 87 will do just fine.

Eric
 
Eric said:
Old_Timer wrote in



Nope. Good old regular with an octane rating of 87 will do just fine.

It's important to NOT use higher octane fuel in an engine rated for 87
octane, as it will not burn efficiently and will leave deposits in the
engine.
 
never heard that story before! My Merc Grand Marquis pings a little on
hills when hot and if I use 89 or 91 it doesn't ping...so far with 110,000
miles on it the engine is as good as new.
 
Deck said:
never heard that story before!

It's not a story, it's fact.
My Merc Grand Marquis pings a little on
hills when hot and if I use 89 or 91 it doesn't ping...so far with 110,000
miles on it the engine is as good as new.

If it pings on hills, that indicates that you need higher octane fuel
than whatever's in the tank. Unless it's always pinged on regular, it's
quite possible that the pinging is due to carbon buildup on the valves
and cylinder head(s). Carbon deposits create hot spots and increase
compression. Higher octane fuel is required to compensate for those
conditions.

Modern engines as in the Sonata have computerized control over ignition
and valve timing and automatically retard the timing if pinging occurs,
so you'd never even know it's happening. The engines are designed
specifically to run on 87 octane fuel and using higher octane is not
good for them. Higher octane fuels burn more slowly. If they're used in
an engine that's designed for faster-burning, lower-octane fuel, they
don't burn efficiently. Inefficient combustion leads to deposit buildup
in the engine. With modern engines and modern fuels, the worst thing you
can do is to run premium in an engine designed for regular. There is
absolutely no advantage to doing so. It cruds up your engine AND it pay
extra for the fuel that's doing the damage. It's your basis lose-lose
situation.
 
Brian said:
Modern engines as in the Sonata have computerized control over ignition
and valve timing and automatically retard the timing if pinging occurs,
so you'd never even know it's happening. The engines are designed
specifically to run on 87 octane fuel and using higher octane is not
good for them. Higher octane fuels burn more slowly. If they're used in
an engine that's designed for faster-burning, lower-octane fuel, they
don't burn efficiently. Inefficient combustion leads to deposit buildup
in the engine. With modern engines and modern fuels, the worst thing you
can do is to run premium in an engine designed for regular. There is
absolutely no advantage to doing so. It cruds up your engine AND it pay
extra for the fuel that's doing the damage. It's your basis lose-lose
situation.

I dunno, I think running your engine without oil is a much worst thing
then running in on premium fuel. :-)


Matt
 
With modern engines and modern fuels, the worst thing you
can do is to run premium in an engine designed for regular. There is
absolutely no advantage to doing so. It cruds up your engine AND it pay
extra for the fuel that's doing the damage. It's your basis lose-lose
situation.

The oil companies advertise all kinds of "cleaning" and "anti-deposit"
additives in their premium gas. They lie like a bunch of common pygmies.
 
The oil companies advertise all kinds of "cleaning" and "anti-deposit"
additives in their premium gas. They lie like a bunch of common pygmies.
--
Please describe a common pigmie !!!! Im only familiar with the real highbrow
Donald Trump type..

Tunez
 
my '06 came with an owners manual....the answer is as close as your glove
box!....I use regular unleaded.
 
Bob said:
The oil companies advertise all kinds of "cleaning" and "anti-deposit"
additives in their premium gas. They lie like a bunch of common pygmies.

Well, it's more a lie of ommission. They do have additives in their
premium gas, but what they're not telling you is that they're in their
regular gas, too. The old mechanic's solution "run a tank of premium
through your engine to clean it" simply doesn't apply anymore. Modern
fuels do an excellent job of keeping engines clean. That's why fuel
additives - other than those designed to remove water - are largely a
waste of money. You can remove water from your tank using denatured
alcohol that's a fraction of the price of Drygas and similar products.

This is also true of oil additives; they're unnecessary and often
counterproductive. Modern oils contain finely-tuned additive packages
that are based on the needs of the engine. Dumping a bottle of "Amazing
Snake Oil" into your crankcase is not only not helpful, it can disrupt
the balance of additives and result in lower protection for your engine.
Some, such as those that contain Teflon (which Dupont say IS NOT
suitable for use inside an engine) can actually cause blockages in the
fine oil pathways found in newer engines, resulting is serious engine
damage.

The bottom line is that the manufacturer of your engine has invested
tens of millions of dollars (or more) in developing it. They KNOW what
it needs for fuel and lubricants. Follow their recommendations and you
can't go wrong.
 
Bob Adkins said:
The oil companies advertise all kinds of "cleaning" and "anti-deposit"
additives in their premium gas. They lie like a bunch of common pygmies.

.... as opposed to a bunch of elite pygmies?
 
Darby OGill said:
my '06 came with an owners manual....the answer is as close as your glove
box!....I use regular unleaded.

Now there ya go - expecting the unreasonable. Why would anyone possibly
think it might be more appropriate to do something for one's self such as
read an owner's manual, or even perhaps go on-line to the Hyundai web site
when it is so much easier to just post a question to a newsgroup? I can see
you are a man of high demands and expectations.
 
Now that we have the fuel thing settled, how about oil. I have used
syntec-blend for years. let's all argue about fossil vs synthetic!!
 
I have read the owners manual cover to cover and I don't find any reference
to synthetic oil....also,,here's another bug-aboo. just try to change the
third stoplight bulb.....there's nothing in the manual about it. you can
learn tha hard way like I did. pry the thing up and break the
brackets---OR you can crawl in the trunk and remove two screws that hold
the module to the rear tray!!!
 
Now that we have the fuel thing settled, how about oil. I have used
syntec-blend for years. let's all argue about fossil vs synthetic!!

Oh no, you're not going to sucker me into a re-hash of that old argument! :)

I'm not one to follow any advice blindly. I usually run things through my
own filters. But in this case, the manufacturer recommends the most
economical** oil, and I'm following their recommendations.

**Economical, in this case, is what's best to use over the life of the car.
There are arguably better lubricants out there than the manufacturer
recommends. However, they do not make economic sense except in EXTREMELY
harsh and unusual conditions.

The best analogy I can think of is a common 16 penny nail. You can get
steel, and stainless steel versions. Which is best? Well, obviously
stainless is "better". But,,, you have to ask yourself why they are not
used to frame up houses. Now if someone tells me they framed up their house
with SS nails, I swear I'm going to jump!
 
Economic could also mean the best oil that would keep your engine running
for years without any trouble. engine trouble is EXpensive!
 
Deck said:
Now that we have the fuel thing settled, how about oil. I have used
syntec-blend for years. let's all argue about fossil vs synthetic!!

Arguing about it sure beats being a fence straddler and using a blend!!
Come on, take a stand, make a decision!!!!! :-)


Matt
 
Bob said:
Oh no, you're not going to sucker me into a re-hash of that old argument! :)

I'm not one to follow any advice blindly. I usually run things through my
own filters. But in this case, the manufacturer recommends the most
economical** oil, and I'm following their recommendations.

**Economical, in this case, is what's best to use over the life of the car.
There are arguably better lubricants out there than the manufacturer
recommends. However, they do not make economic sense except in EXTREMELY
harsh and unusual conditions.

Yes, if you base better purely on economics, then I don't disagree,
especially if you don't plan to keep the car much beyond 200,000 miles.
Personally, I make my "better" decisions on a range of factors with
economy being only one of those factors. Then again, folks that buy a
Hyundai in the first place are already pretty much making a statement
that they are cheap! :-)

The best analogy I can think of is a common 16 penny nail. You can get
steel, and stainless steel versions. Which is best? Well, obviously
stainless is "better". But,,, you have to ask yourself why they are not
used to frame up houses. Now if someone tells me they framed up their house
with SS nails, I swear I'm going to jump!

But SS isn't better in every regard. A rusted steel nail has much
greater holding power than an SS nail. Also, SS is often softer than
steel and will bend more easily while being driven. So, you simply
can't say that SS is better than plain old steel. On the other hand,
synthetic oil IS better than dino oil in every parameter I can think of
EXCEPT for cost.


Matt
 
OH GOD NOT AGAIN !!!! That poor horse was beat so much it may never walk
again let alone run again !!

Tunez
 
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