Intermittent ignition problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Christopher Wong
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Christopher Wong

My 2001 Accent has trouble starting every few days. When this happens -- the
engine cranks but does not start -- it takes several tries to get it going.
But once started, it gives me no trouble at all for a while. Between
episodes, it starts fine on the first try. What's problematic is that this
starting problem is intermittent, so I'm worried that if I just bring this
to a mechanic he'd have to make a guess and replace a few things.

It's not the battery or alternator (I had them tested at Autozone). It's
probably not the air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter or air filter: they
are all fairly new. Sometimes, I've seen erratic idling on cold start (RPMs
go up and down). Sometimes, the engine seems a little noisy on cold start,
but quiets down after about half a min. Any suggestions on how to approach
this? Thanks.

Chris
 
Christopher Wong said:
My 2001 Accent has trouble starting every few days. When this happens --
the
engine cranks but does not start -- it takes several tries to get it
going.
But once started, it gives me no trouble at all for a while. Between
episodes, it starts fine on the first try. What's problematic is that this
starting problem is intermittent, so I'm worried that if I just bring this
to a mechanic he'd have to make a guess and replace a few things.

It's not the battery or alternator (I had them tested at Autozone). It's
probably not the air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter or air filter: they
are all fairly new. Sometimes, I've seen erratic idling on cold start
(RPMs
go up and down). Sometimes, the engine seems a little noisy on cold start,
but quiets down after about half a min. Any suggestions on how to approach
this? Thanks.

Chris
Click to expand...

First figure out if it's a fuel or spark issue. Check for spark when it
doesn't want to start. Also, make sure that you hear the fuel pump for a few
seconds when you first turn on the key.

None of the things you mentioned will cause the symptoms you describe other
than - maybe - a fuel filter full of water or other stuff. But then, it
would be unlikely that the car would run well between episodes. You could be
looking at a fuel pump, PCM, CPS, fuel pump relay, etc. First, figure out if
it's fuel or ignition.
 
I had a similar problem on a Dodge. This went on for several months
and it could go for several weeks without a problem. It turned out to
be a cam sensor but it couldn't be tracked down until the check engine
light went on so that the code could be read.
 
Check for trouble codes in the ECM. It's possible it saw an issue but the
problem didn't repeat, so the check engine lamp is not yet on.

Also, when the vehicle cranks, does it crank normally, slowly, or quickly?
 
Check for trouble codes in the ECM. It's possible it saw an issue but the
problem didn't repeat, so the check engine lamp is not yet on.

Also, when the vehicle cranks, does it crank normally, slowly, or quickly?
Click to expand...

Thanks to you and others for replying. I did not realize that codes could be
set if the check engine light is not lit. Anyway, I had Autozone scan the
OBD-II, and came up empty. Even when it has trouble starting, the engine
cranks normally. I don't get it. Apart from these intermittent starting
problems, the car runs normally.

Chris
 
Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.

When the condition occurs:

Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.

Like the other poster(s) mentioned, you want to check to see if you have
spark and injector pulse. Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
metal and then watch while cranking the engine. To check for injector
pulse, you'll need a noid lamp (a lamp which plugs into the harness where
the injector would normally plug in). If the noid lamp flashes, then you
have injector pulse.

The immediate things that come to mind as possible causes are a bad main
or ecu relay, or a bad crank sensor.
 
Checking for spark is simple enough. Pull one
of the plug wires and stuff an old spark plug in it and lay on something
metal and then watch while cranking the engine.
Click to expand...

I thought that I had read where this is not a good thing to do on the
electronic engines. Its supposed to mess something up. I always did it in
the old days but not lately(20 years)
 
If the injectors are working, it'll put fuel in the exhaust, so you
shouldn't really do it. But as a quick test, it's pretty harmless.
 
Could be a bad crank sensor or relay.

When the condition occurs:

Check for the check engine lamp during the bulb test. This means the
computer powers and grounds properly when the ignition is on.
...
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll also listen for the fuel pump (I didn't realize you could hear
it) next time, as another poster said. I'll keep an eye on the check engine
light for another reason, namely this TSB I found on hmaservice:

-------------------------------------------

TSB 01-36-014: 2000-01 Accent Intermittent Crank-No-Start Caused by the ECM

DESCRIPTION:

If a 2000 or 2001 Accent experiences all of the following:
- Very intermittent crank-no-start (in some cases, months between incidences).
- The Check Engine Light does not light up when the ignition key is turned to
the on position (normally it does).
- The Hi-Scan Pro cannot communicate with the Engine Control Module (ECM).
- Disrupting power to the ECM and reapplying (for example, by disconnecting
the negative terminal on the battery or disconnecting and reconnecting the
EC01 connector) fixes the car temporarily (the engine starts).
- The vehicle was produced between 6/14/00 and 7/11/00.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

Replace the ECM.

-------------------------------------------

I'm not saying I'm positive this is my problem, but I'll keep an eye on the
check engine light. I do have a 2001 Accent, and the no-start problem is
suspiciously intermittent, but I don't think it was manufactured in that
date range. Too bad my warranty expired less than 3000 miles ago. I rather
doubt that an ECM comes cheap.

Chris
 
See, I should check the bulletins more often. Every once in a while,
there's one I don't remember.

You can check your car's production date by looking at the placard on the
driver's door opening pillar. If it's not in the production date range
(which it is likely not since the range only goes to 7/11/00), then you're
extremely unlikely to have this as a problem. The good news, however, is
that if this is the problem, your ECM may be still covered under
warranty-- it's warranted for 8 years/80k miles under mandate from the
federal government.
 
Christopher Wong said:
My 2001 Accent has trouble starting every few days. When this happens -- the
engine cranks but does not start -- it takes several tries to get it going.
But once started, it gives me no trouble at all for a while. Between
episodes, it starts fine on the first try. What's problematic is that this
starting problem is intermittent, so I'm worried that if I just bring this
to a mechanic he'd have to make a guess and replace a few things.

It's not the battery or alternator (I had them tested at Autozone). It's
probably not the air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter or air filter: they
are all fairly new. Sometimes, I've seen erratic idling on cold start (RPMs
go up and down). Sometimes, the engine seems a little noisy on cold start,
but quiets down after about half a min. Any suggestions on how to approach
this? Thanks.

Chris
Click to expand...
 
Bought my 2001 accent new (Mar 2001 manufacture). Always started immediately until four days ago when it cranked well but never started. Towed to mechanic where it always started. Drove home, parked, drove next day where in afternoon it cranked but would not start. Towed to different mechanic. The next day mechanic had no trouble repeatedly starting car. Drove home, parked overnight, this morning cranks but will not start. ?????
 
Right now it is an intermittent crank, no start
When it doesn't start, I would open the hood and check for spark and fuel
When the key is first turned to the "on" position,
should be able to hear the fuel pump prime the fuel rail for about 2 seconds
If you touch the injectors then you might be able to feel if they fire
Some mechanics use a large screwdriver to listen to the injectors (like a stethoscope)

If no spark then chase the ignition system
If no fuel or injector pulse then chase fuel system
If no spark and no injector pulse then probably crankshaft sensor

Good luck
 
Hope you guys didn't replace the ecm. It is "connected" to the crank sensor and cam sensor and if they don't "see" anything they won't activate the ecm and in turn the fuel pump. Gotta love Korean engineering. Try pulling the crank sensor and cleaning it off. The little metal button sometimes doesn't sense the crank. Also may be replace with a junkyard part first(cheaper than new).
 
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent that has developed an intermittent starting problem. It cranks but wont start, a friend arrives to put a tester on it, and of course it starts ok when a mechanic is there... I left it at his shop for a few weeks and they were unable to get it to malfunction. Took it home, and after a few days it failed to start again. The no-starts got more infrequent, and then I had a run of about three weeks when the car started great. Yesterday I had another no-start.

Does the information in this thread for a 2001 also apply to a 2009? I am hoping I can figure out how to track down which system has the problem. Or maybe ask a mechanic to clean the crank sensor? Would the noid lamp suggestion apply to a 2009? Usually the no-start crank sounds normal, though twice it made a very slow crank sound.

The problem first start after getting caught in a really heavy thunderstorm. Any possible connection? Car only has 62K miles, has a new battery and starter, and has been well maintained. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
So, assuming this is a crank, no start issue ...
When it doesn't start, check for spark
Turn key to "ON" position and listen for fuel pump to prime fuel rail (last about two seconds)
Feel injectors for firing pulse or use noid light to test.
Also, possible to spray starter fluid into throttle/in-take to see if it starts
Check for 5 volt reference on TPS (throttle position sensor)

If it does start then difficult to test for problem.
Good luck
 
Just remembered, ...
This may have nothing to do with your issue
But, have heard on another forum ...
That the cam shaft sensor can go out of spec when exposed to cold (like over night outside).
 
Thanks so much for your suggestions. I live in Florida, so overnight cold is more unlikely. I did notice that both cam and crank sensors are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace, so may just do that. My mechanic is going to show me how to do some of the tests, since I was told at one shop that sometimes you just have to start replacing things when the problem is really intermittent. That has already been sort of expensive, so I'm going to learn something about how to test for which system has a problem. Again, thanks for your help!

avisitor said:
Just remembered, ...
This may have nothing to do with your issue
But, have heard on another forum ...
That the cam shaft sensor can go out of spec when exposed to cold (like over night outside).
Click to expand...
 
My radio/CD on my 2012 Santa Fe keeps going off and on. It may come on when I start the car , play for 2 to 20 minutes than go out (blank screen) than come back on again, it is constantly going off and on. I thought it was a loose wire, but it goes off while the car is not moving. This has been going on now for months. Any suggestions?
 
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