Is engine oil color a good indication of it's condition?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Lindyhop, Jun 17, 2004.

  1. Lindyhop

    Lindyhop Guest

    Regarding oil changes I wonder if the color of the oil (dino, not synth) is a good indication of when a change is necessary? For instance, I changed the oil in my Elantra about 3000 miles ago and it's still a nice amber color. Does that mean it's still providing good lubrication? Is it ok to wait until the color of the oil noticeably darkens before changing it?
     
    Lindyhop, Jun 17, 2004
    #1
  2. Lindyhop

    mrhct Guest

    You should change the oil per the manufacturer's recommendations. The color
    of the oil means nothing. Unless your car is new, 3000 miles is probably a
    bit early to change oil.
    Regarding oil changes I wonder if the color of the oil (dino, not synth) is
    a good indication of when a change is necessary? For instance, I changed
    the oil in my Elantra about 3000 miles ago and it's still a nice amber
    color. Does that mean it's still providing good lubrication? Is it ok to
    wait until the color of the oil noticeably darkens before changing it?
     
    mrhct, Jun 17, 2004
    #2
  3. Lindyhop

    KR Guest

    Many, many years ago oil was so clean it looked like the lightest
    color maple syrup when it poured out of the can. You could make a
    rough guesstimate at when an oil change was needed per the darkness of
    the oil. Cars had a lot more blow-by and the oild got darker the
    longer it was driven. You cannot do that anymore. You need to figure
    out how your driving fits into the manufacturer recommended
    maintenance schedule in the owner's manual; most drivers actually fall
    into the severe duty maintenance schedule. Change your oil (at a
    minimum) per that recommended schedule. If your car has an oil change
    sensor you can use it to track the need for changing. They are quite
    accurate at tracking the time, mileage and condition of oil.

    Now for an oil history lesson.

    I remember my Grandfather getting his oil changed on his big old Buick
    Roadmaster every 1000 miles along with greasing all the points on the
    chassis. This was using the original motor oils that were around at
    that time. You put 20 or 30 weight in in the summer and 10 or 20
    weight in the winter. You also threw a blanket over the hood to retain
    the engines heat in the winter but I digress....

    As time went by manufacturers started putting a LOT more additives
    into oil. Shortly after WWII, the American Petroleum Institute (API)
    developed a system that established three basic types of engine oils:
    regular, premium and heavy-duty. Because three oil classifications
    could never hope to cover all of the different applications ranging
    from conventional passenger cars to heavy-duty trucks the API
    realized that other variables had to be considered, such as the type
    of engine and its usage.

    In 1952, the API launched the service classifications system.

    The API system revolves around two general classification: S for
    Service (passenger cars and light trucks) and C for commercial
    applications (smelly yucky diesels). The breakdown of "S" varieties is
    as follows:

    SA: Plain mineral oil that doesn't contain any additives. This oil was
    primarily used in the 1920s - nobody uses it today.

    SB: Lubes that contain anti-wear and oxidation inhibitors as well as
    corrosion inhibitors. This oil was primarily in use prior to 1964 and
    was created for vehicles that saw moderate conditions.

    SC: This classification was originally recommended for use in 1964-67
    vehicles. It contains additives that control rust, wear, corrosion and
    engine deposits. It too is now obsolete.

    SD: SD lubes were recommended for use in 1968-70 vehicles as well as
    certain post-1970 passenger cars. This oil contains the same additive
    packages as the SC class and can be used in place of it. (When I
    started changing oil it was rated SD on the cans).

    SE: This category was recommended for certain 1971 vehicles as well as
    most 1972 vehicles. This classification offers more protection than
    the SD group of lubricants and is suitable for severe-duty
    applications.

    SF: Recommended with 1980 and newer passenger vehicles. This oil has
    superior anti-wear properties and enhanced oxidation stability over SE
    lubricants.

    SG: The SG rating was introduced in 1989 and combined the performance
    properties of the commercial rating CC (lubricants designed for use in
    supercharged/turbocharged diesel applications in moderate to severe
    service).

    SH: Now obsolete, SH was designed for 1996 and older engines.

    SJ: Introduced in 1996, this rating is for all automotive engines
    presently in use.

    You can think of the API system as a blueprint for oil. In order to
    gain an API classification, oil manufacturers have to follow a set of
    limitations.

    You can learn a lot more about oil at this link:
    http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
     
    KR, Jun 18, 2004
    #3
  4. Lindyhop

    Swingman Guest

    That's great. Thanks for all the information!



    (dino, not synth) is a good indication of when a change is
    necessary? For instance, I changed the oil in my Elantra
    about 3000 miles ago and it's still a nice amber color.
    Does that mean it's still providing good lubrication? Is it
    ok to wait until the color of the oil noticeably darkens
    before changing it?
     
    Swingman, Jun 18, 2004
    #4
  5. You forgot SL, which is the current standard.
     
    Brian Nystrom, Jun 19, 2004
    #5
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