LED bulbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter D Nieves
  • Start date Start date
D

D Nieves

Has anybody purchased LED side marker and brake lights for their Hyundais?
I'm thinking about it but I want to know if they'll fit into an Elantra GT's
openings and if the brightness is comparable or better than an incandescent
bulb? I found one place that has them in various colors
http://shop.autoi.com/osb/showitem.cfm/Category/24 (supplier:
http://www.lampbulbs.com.tw/New/New1.htm ) but ~$25 per LED bulb that should
outlast a regular bulb that may not be a bright could become expensive if
you consider replacing every light.
 
D said:
Has anybody purchased LED side marker and brake lights for their Hyundais?
I'm thinking about it but I want to know if they'll fit into an Elantra GT's
openings and if the brightness is comparable or better than an incandescent
bulb? I found one place that has them in various colors
http://shop.autoi.com/osb/showitem.cfm/Category/24 (supplier:
http://www.lampbulbs.com.tw/New/New1.htm ) but ~$25 per LED bulb that should
outlast a regular bulb that may not be a bright could become expensive if
you consider replacing every light.
Click to expand...

That's a bit expensive isn't it. Have you considered shopping for LED's
online in say, the Philipenes - all components Waaay cheaper.

If you connect them straight up you'll blow them up. You'll need a voltage
divider of about 240 ohms: one resistor across the LED(s) in parallel and
in series with the positive supply. http://www.jaycar.com.au sell them as a
kitset that uses a hybrid PCB connected to the usual bayonette.

I'm trying to flick-on intellectual property rights for my LED Accelerator
at: http://www.geocities.com/ledaccelerator/9p/index.html .

To answer your other questions. LED's make far better indicators, tail and
brake lights than incandescent bulbs do. Provided you get your voltage
divider (see an auto electrician) right they'll last 20000 hours plus. Good
luck with your mods.

2c
PEL
 
That's a bit expensive isn't it. Have you considered shopping for LED's
online in say, the Philipenes - all components Waaay cheaper.

If you connect them straight up you'll blow them up. You'll need a voltage
divider of about 240 ohms: one resistor across the LED(s) in parallel and
in series with the positive supply. http://www.jaycar.com.au sell them as a
kitset that uses a hybrid PCB connected to the usual bayonette.

I'm trying to flick-on intellectual property rights for my LED Accelerator
at: http://www.geocities.com/ledaccelerator/9p/index.html .

To answer your other questions. LED's make far better indicators, tail and
brake lights than incandescent bulbs do. Provided you get your voltage
divider (see an auto electrician) right they'll last 20000 hours plus. Good
luck with your mods.

2c
PEL
Click to expand...

1. The LED needs a series current limiting resistor, nothing in
parallel. Don't forget the wattage requirement on the resistor.

2. The LED's in the catalog may not (probably will not) meet DOT
brightess requirements.

3. Your LED accelerator looks like snake oil. It's nothing more than
a pulse modulator of some form (there are a few). The last time I
looked at LED spec's one did not gain much with this type of
regulation. Maybe the laws of physics changed since then.

4. Looks like a lot of whor and money for an bulb that cost a buck
and lasts years.
 
Dear Nothermark

A voltage divider needs two resistors to function properly. Electronics 101
taught me that one is in series and the other in parallel. What's wrong
with that?...Absolutely nothing. Otherwise it wouldn't be a divider but
simply a load.

2c
PEL
 
Dear Nothermark

A voltage divider needs two resistors to function properly. Electronics 101
taught me that one is in series and the other in parallel. What's wrong
with that?...Absolutely nothing. Otherwise it wouldn't be a divider but
simply a load.
Click to expand...

You don''t need a voltage divider - you need a current limiting
resistor. The voltage accross the LED is not an issue as long as it
is sufficent to forward bias the junction (turn it on) but not so high
it blows it out. The problem is the current flow through the diode
junction. The value of the resistor is approximately the system
supply voltage - 1.5 divided by the operating current of the LED.
The LED acts like a voltage regulator and sets the voltage accross the
shunt resistor. The characteristic voltage drop accross a forward
biased junction is essentially flat for a wide range of current. All
the shunt resistor does is draw more load current throught the series
resistor. You are not dealing with an electronics 101 circuit. It's
around 103 depending on the curriculum. ;-)
 
nothermark said:
You don''t need a voltage divider - you need a current limiting
resistor. The voltage accross the LED is not an issue as long as it
is sufficent to forward bias the junction (turn it on) but not so high
it blows it out. The problem is the current flow through the diode
junction. The value of the resistor is approximately the system
supply voltage - 1.5 divided by the operating current of the LED.
The LED acts like a voltage regulator and sets the voltage accross the
shunt resistor. The characteristic voltage drop accross a forward
biased junction is essentially flat for a wide range of current. All
the shunt resistor does is draw more load current throught the series
resistor. You are not dealing with an electronics 101 circuit. It's
around 103 depending on the curriculum. ;-)
Click to expand...

Ok, valid point noted, and I concur.

2c
PEL of
http://www.geocities.com/ledaccelerator/9p/ fame.
 
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