maintenance requirements

  • Thread starter Thread starter Balfa
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Balfa

I just took my ’02 accent (59k miles) to be inspected for any
servicing it might need.

The list of things that need doing is (* denotes recommended rather
than required):

*3 step fuel (additives to fuel, eng oil and something else?) $80
oil change $30
coolant flush $90
trans flush $100
clean & adjust (i assume rear drums?) $30
*chassis lube $15
*spark plugs $70
The 60k mile service includes all the above for $280, as opposed to
$415 getting them individually.

in addition, the following is needed:
a/c, pwr steer & alt belts $60 + $127 (labour) = $187
new battery $50
flush & fill (don’t know what!) $60
drum brake cylinders $125

A few notes about some of these things. The clean and adjust was
supposedly because the rear wheels spin too freely? He told us the
shoes were supposed to be in very gentle contact with the drums, so
the rear wheels stop after about 1.5 turns if he spins them gently by
hand. Sounded weird, but okay.
He pulled back the dust covers of the brake cylinders and showed us
fluid behind them. This supposedly means the cylinders are leaking
and need replacing. He reckoned these were wear parts and wouldn’t be
covered by warranty :(

As for everything else, what do you folks reckon could be performed by
someone like me who’s never done an ounce of auto maintenance in his
life? I take it the fuel additives would be pretty easy. And probably
the chassis lube and battery. Are spark plugs easy to replace? What
else could I manage? Preferably things that don’t need me to crawl
under the car :D

Thanks!
 
Balfa said:
I just took my '02 accent (59k miles) to be inspected for any
servicing it might need.

The list of things that need doing is (* denotes recommended
rather than required):

*3 step fuel (additives to fuel, eng oil and something else?)
$80
oil change $30
coolant flush $90
trans flush $100
clean & adjust (i assume rear drums?) $30
*chassis lube $15
*spark plugs $70
The 60k mile service includes all the above for $280, as
opposed to $415 getting them individually.

in addition, the following is needed:
a/c, pwr steer & alt belts $60 + $127 (labour) = $187
new battery $50
flush & fill (don't know what!) $60
drum brake cylinders $125

A few notes about some of these things. The clean and adjust
was supposedly because the rear wheels spin too freely? He
told us the shoes were supposed to be in very gentle contact
with the drums, so the rear wheels stop after about 1.5 turns
if he spins them gently by hand. Sounded weird, but okay.
He pulled back the dust covers of the brake cylinders and
showed us fluid behind them. This supposedly means the
cylinders are leaking and need replacing. He reckoned these
were wear parts and wouldn't be covered by warranty :(

As for everything else, what do you folks reckon could be
performed by someone like me who's never done an ounce of auto
maintenance in his life? I take it the fuel additives would
be pretty easy. And probably the chassis lube and battery.
Are spark plugs easy to replace? What else could I manage?
Preferably things that don't need me to crawl under the car :D

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I just called my dealer who said the brake cylinders would be covered
under warranty but that fluid appearing behind the dust covers is
normal! Was my service technician lying??

The dealer also said the battery is warranted for three years, and the
fourth year pro-rated. good news!
 
Unnecessary and probably just a rip-off. Nothing you can add to your
engine oil will have any benefit other than to the person selling it.
Fuel system cleaners may possibly help, but modern fuels do a great job
of keeping engines clean.

You can do it yourself for half the price.

That seems pretty pricey. Again, this is an inexpensive DIY item that
should run less than $30.

It is an auto? If so, this is OK, though I would check the price for the
same service at AAMCO or another tranny specialist.

If the car is a manual, this would be another rip-off. You can change
the tranny oil yourself for ~$20. Check your owner's manual to see if
this is even required.

Another rip-off. Rear brakes are self-adjusting and they don't need
cleaning.

Another rip-off. There's nothing to lube on the chassis.

Are you kidding me? A set of plugs costs $6-$20. It takes ten minutes to
change them.

Well, recalculate using realistic prices, then decide if you're getting
a good deal. I come out with a total of ~$85 to DIY if the car is a
manual and no more than ~165 if it's an auto and the cost of a tranny
flush is actually $100.

I find it difficult to believe that it would take two hours to replace
the belts. A timing belt could be done in about the same amount of time.
It's required at 60K, so aren't they including it?

Why? Is the current on not working?

It would be nice to know. Never pay for anything that isn't spelled out!

Sounds like BS to me. I can't think of any good reason to have the brake
shoes rubbing slightly. The brakes self-adjust as necessary.

This is a common scam. A little fluid under the dust covers is normal.
If it's running out, that's a problem.

See above.

Sure, just don't bother.

See above.
Yes.
Click to expand...

Since you're smiling, I take it you're not serious. DIY maintenance
almost always requires some time on your back.
I just called my dealer who said the brake cylinders would be covered
under warranty but that fluid appearing behind the dust covers is
normal! Was my service technician lying??
Click to expand...

Probably. It looks to me that he took full advantage of the opportunity
you gave him, rather than giving you an honest appraisal. I would not go
back to him for anything, period, and I'd let him know why.
Unfortunately, the car repair world is full of rip-off artists and
scammers. If you find an honest mechanic, consider yourself lucky.
The dealer also said the battery is warranted for three years, and the
fourth year pro-rated. good news!
Click to expand...

If you actually need one.
 
Brian Nystrom said:
 > > I just took my '02 accent (59k miles) to be
inspected for any
 > > servicing it might need.
 > >
 > > The list of things that need doing is (* denotes
recommended
 > > rather than required):
 > >
 > > *3 step fuel (additives to fuel, eng oil and
something else?)
 > > $80

Unnecessary and probably just a rip-off. Nothing you can add
to your
engine oil will have any benefit other than to the person
selling it.
Fuel system cleaners may possibly help, but modern fuels do a
great job
of keeping engines clean.

 > > oil change $30

You can do it yourself for half the price.

 > > coolant flush $90

That seems pretty pricey. Again, this is an inexpensive DIY
item that
should run less than $30.

 > > trans flush $100

It is an auto? If so, this is OK, though I would check the
price for the
same service at AAMCO or another tranny specialist.

If the car is a manual, this would be another rip-off. You can
change
the tranny oil yourself for ~$20. Check your owner's manual to
see if
this is even required.

 > > clean & adjust (i assume rear drums?) $30

Another rip-off. Rear brakes are self-adjusting and they don't
need
cleaning.

 > > *chassis lube $15

Another rip-off. There's nothing to lube on the chassis.

 > > *spark plugs $70

Are you kidding me? A set of plugs costs $6-$20. It takes ten
minutes to
change them.

 > > The 60k mile service includes all the above for
$280, as
 > > opposed to $415 getting them individually.

Well, recalculate using realistic prices, then decide if
you're getting
a good deal. I come out with a total of ~$85 to DIY if the car
is a
manual and no more than ~165 if it's an auto and the cost of a
tranny
flush is actually $100.

 > > in addition, the following is needed:
 > > a/c, pwr steer & alt belts $60 + $127 (labour) =
$187

I find it difficult to believe that it would take two hours to
replace
the belts. A timing belt could be done in about the same
amount of time.
It's required at 60K, so aren't they including it?

 > > new battery $50

Why? Is the current on not working?

 > > flush & fill (don't know what!) $60

It would be nice to know. Never pay for anything that isn't
spelled out!

 > > drum brake cylinders $125
 > >
 > > A few notes about some of these things. The clean
and adjust
 > > was supposedly because the rear wheels spin too
freely? He
 > > told us the shoes were supposed to be in very
gentle contact
 > > with the drums, so the rear wheels stop after about
1.5 turns
 > > if he spins them gently by hand. Sounded weird,
but okay.

Sounds like BS to me. I can't think of any good reason to have
the brake
shoes rubbing slightly. The brakes self-adjust as necessary.

 > > He pulled back the dust covers of the brake
cylinders and
 > > showed us fluid behind them. This supposedly means
the
 > > cylinders are leaking and need replacing. He
reckoned these
 > > were wear parts and wouldn't be covered by warranty
:(

This is a common scam. A little fluid under the dust covers is
normal.
If it's running out, that's a problem.

 > > As for everything else, what do you folks reckon
could be
 > > performed by someone like me who's never done an
ounce of auto
 > > maintenance in his life?

See above.

 > > I take it the fuel additives would be pretty easy.

Sure, just don't bother.

 > > And probably the chassis lube and battery.

See above.

 > > Are spark plugs easy to replace?

Yes.

 > > What else could I manage?
 > > Preferably things that don't need me to crawl under
the car :D

Since you're smiling, I take it you're not serious. DIY
maintenance
almost always requires some time on your back.


Probably. It looks to me that he took full advantage of the
opportunity
you gave him, rather than giving you an honest appraisal. I
would not go
back to him for anything, period, and I'd let him know why.
Unfortunately, the car repair world is full of rip-off artists
and
scammers. If you find an honest mechanic, consider yourself
lucky.


If you actually need one.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much, Brian. Very useful information! :)
 
I pretty much agree with Brian. I'll highlight the areas where I disagree
or have additional points to raise:

You may wish to consider dropping the trans pan and replacing the filter
instead of a flush. This won't change as much fluid, but it will change
the filter. If you have a repair shop other than a dealer service the
trans, be sure they use SPIII fluid.

The star-wheel brake adjuster system on your car (and most other drum
brake vehicles) is notorious for not working very well. Use your parking
brake and pedal height as a guide. If you need to pull your park brake
near full stroke or you must significantly depress the brake pedal to
receive braking, it's probably a good idea to adjust the rear brakes. The
spinning freely vs. 1.5 turns is a very poor indicator.

I think brake fluid under the dust covers, even in a small amount,
indicates a leak that needs to be fixed. I don't know that Hyundai has an
official position on this, but I believe I am in agreement with GM's
official position. Unfortunately, it's your dealer that needs to agree,
not me. If they don't agree they need to be replaced and you think they
should be, you can call Hyundai customer assistance, and they'll open a
case on it. If you're a reasonably good customer at the dealer, they may
do it for you even if they don't agree, just to keep you happy. Picking
apart their (albeit excessive) 30k service won't help your case, though.

And bad news on the battery. If you're in the U.S., it's full replacement
within the first two years. The third year, you pay 75% parts and no
labor. After three years, the expense is all yours.
 
hyundaitech said:
I pretty much agree with Brian. I'll highlight the areas where I disagree
or have additional points to raise:

You may wish to consider dropping the trans pan and replacing the filter
instead of a flush. This won't change as much fluid, but it will change
the filter. If you have a repair shop other than a dealer service the
trans, be sure they use SPIII fluid.
Click to expand...

Just a quick note that this is for an automatic transmission only. If
it's a manual, you use GL-4 gear oil and there is no filter.
The star-wheel brake adjuster system on your car (and most other drum
brake vehicles) is notorious for not working very well. Use your parking
brake and pedal height as a guide. If you need to pull your park brake
near full stroke or you must significantly depress the brake pedal to
receive braking, it's probably a good idea to adjust the rear brakes. The
spinning freely vs. 1.5 turns is a very poor indicator.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying that. I haven't run into the problem, so I wasn't
aware of it. However, adjusting the brakes isn't difficult, either.
IIRC, brake adjusting tools are <$5.
I think brake fluid under the dust covers, even in a small amount,
indicates a leak that needs to be fixed. I don't know that Hyundai has an
official position on this, but I believe I am in agreement with GM's
official position. Unfortunately, it's your dealer that needs to agree,
not me. If they don't agree they need to be replaced and you think they
should be, you can call Hyundai customer assistance, and they'll open a
case on it. If you're a reasonably good customer at the dealer, they may
do it for you even if they don't agree, just to keep you happy. Picking
apart their (albeit excessive) 30k service won't help your case, though.
Click to expand...

I don't know what the parts for an Accent cost, but when I replaced the
rear slave cylinders on my Excel (one was leaking badly enough to
warrant it), they cost me ~$25 each at Pep Boys. The installation was
easy. You just need to be sure to bleed the brakes afterward.
 
some those prices seem awwfullly high to me, 90.00 for a collant flush???
we paid 45.00 + taxes at our Hyun dealer in Canada...
chassis lube? far as i know everything lubed for life, ball joints etc...
70.00 for spark plugs??? what are they using gold plated connectors, and
theyre suuper easy to replace, takes 15 minutes!
and the 3 step fuel / oil additives, sounds like a crock too me...
if it doesnt state in the owners ,manual it's not needed...
i just use a bottle of fuel injector cleaning every 5000 kms with a full
tank and every 5th oil change i use a 3.99 bottle of wynns engine flush...
 
Balfa said:
I just took my '02 accent (59k miles) to be inspected for any
servicing it might need.

The list of things that need doing is (* denotes recommended
rather than required):

*3 step fuel (additives to fuel, eng oil and something else?)
$80
oil change $30
coolant flush $90
trans flush $100
clean & adjust (i assume rear drums?) $30
*chassis lube $15
*spark plugs $70
The 60k mile service includes all the above for $280, as
opposed to $415 getting them individually.

in addition, the following is needed:
a/c, pwr steer & alt belts $60 + $127 (labour) = $187
new battery $50
flush & fill (don't know what!) $60
drum brake cylinders $125

A few notes about some of these things. The clean and adjust
was supposedly because the rear wheels spin too freely? He
told us the shoes were supposed to be in very gentle contact
with the drums, so the rear wheels stop after about 1.5 turns
if he spins them gently by hand. Sounded weird, but okay.
He pulled back the dust covers of the brake cylinders and
showed us fluid behind them. This supposedly means the
cylinders are leaking and need replacing. He reckoned these
were wear parts and wouldn't be covered by warranty :(

As for everything else, what do you folks reckon could be
performed by someone like me who's never done an ounce of auto
maintenance in his life? I take it the fuel additives would
be pretty easy. And probably the chassis lube and battery.
Are spark plugs easy to replace? What else could I manage?
Preferably things that don't need me to crawl under the car :D

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the extra info.

As a side note, I really don’t want to get under the car, because
there’s no level parking near my apartment, so i doubt i can safely
put the car on jack stands :( I suppose it’s best if i put aside my
dreams of becoming a DIYer until i can find some level groud, eh?
 
i change my oil with out jacking the car up at all, i just reach under and
undo the driain plug and slide a shallow pan under then i open hood and
carefully reach under alternator and undo the oil filter by hand.. (best
bet is to get the oil filter removal cap that goes on end of your wratchet
wrnch then on end of the filter) in case pror oil guys put filiter on too
tight... if its tight the ratchet filter tool saves alotta swearing =)
i had to stab my old filter once with a metal punch and turn it off . make
sure u turn filter opening side facing up as u take it up carefully to top
of engine towards u.

plugs are very easy too, make sure u gapem right and blow out any debris
after u remove the wire with some air from a can or compressor.
do when engines cold....
hyundai tech here can gibve u alotta pointers....
 
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