Oil Drain Plug Gasket installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Peet
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Peet

Is there a way to install this WRONGLY? The one side is flat with a
groove in the middle and the other side is semi-circular. Which side
goes into the oil pan hole and which side fits against the drain plug
head?
 
The groove in the middle should go "out" as you place it on the drain plug -
it will eventually be the side that goes against the oil pan. That is one
of those "crush-able" o-rings, and that groove is what provides the seal.

Key is to ALWAYS make sure you replace these crushable o-rings with every
oil change. After they have been deformed that first time, if you try to
re-use it, it will leak.

Hope this helps.

Tom Wenndt
 
Rev. Tom Wenndt said:
The groove in the middle should go "out" as you place it on the drain plug -
it will eventually be the side that goes against the oil pan. That is one
of those "crush-able" o-rings, and that groove is what provides the seal.

Key is to ALWAYS make sure you replace these crushable o-rings with every
oil change. After they have been deformed that first time, if you try to
re-use it, it will leak.
Click to expand...

Better yet, replace the plug with a Fram or Fumoto drain valve and
eliminate the need to replace the crush washers. They also eliminate the
need to handle oily drain plugs.
 
Better yet, replace the plug with a Fram or Fumoto drain valve and
eliminate the need to replace the crush washers. They also eliminate the
need to handle oily drain plugs.
Click to expand...

I've wondered how these work. Haven't really ever heard anyone who actually
used one over a period of time make a comment about them. How long have you
had yours in Brian? How many oil changes has it gone through?
 
Rev. Tom Wenndt said:
The groove in the middle should go "out" as you place it on the drain plug -
it will eventually be the side that goes against the oil pan. That is one
of those "crush-able" o-rings, and that groove is what provides the seal.

Key is to ALWAYS make sure you replace these crushable o-rings with every
oil change. After they have been deformed that first time, if you try to
re-use it, it will leak.
Click to expand...

You should tell that to the original "crushable" o-ring under my 01
Santa Fe.

13 oil changes later, no leaks at the drain plug. I wish I could say
that for the valve cover (leaking at gasket) that the idiot "Hyundai
Certified" mechanic removed...

IMHO, if you're destroying those rings on every usage (at least the
brass/copper ones like the factory used) you really need to lay off the
drain plug torque - its not a lugnut.

JS
 
You have me laughing at that, because often I have accused "fast oil change"
mechanics of using the occasion to tighten the drain plug to do their
chin-up exercises - it is unbelievable how tight that drain plug is when
anybody other than me does the oil change.

Usually I only use two or three fingers on the wrench.

But still, if I forget to change that O-ring (which I have done twice), they
have leaked.

But the dealer gives me a whole bag-full for nothing, so it is no big deal
for me to change them.

Thanx for the info.

Tom Wenndt
 
My Hyundai 1996 Accent has over 213,000 miles on it. I just changed the oil
in it today, and on my wife's 1993 Impreza with over 230,000 albeit rusting
miles on it. Both cars use/take the same generic NAPA shrink wrapped
filter. Both cars still have the original so-called crushable washer. Now,
let's see which car makes it to over 300,000 miles first?

Jozef
 
Mike said:
I've wondered how these work. Haven't really ever heard anyone who actually
used one over a period of time make a comment about them. How long have you
had yours in Brian? How many oil changes has it gone through?
Click to expand...

I installed a Fram valve at the first oil change, so after the change
last weekend I guess I've done a total of five with it in place over the
2+ years I've had the car. Zero problems.
 
Jozef said:
My Hyundai 1996 Accent has over 213,000 miles on it. I just changed the oil
in it today, and on my wife's 1993 Impreza with over 230,000 albeit rusting
miles on it. Both cars use/take the same generic NAPA shrink wrapped
filter. Both cars still have the original so-called crushable washer. Now,
let's see which car makes it to over 300,000 miles first?

Jozef
Click to expand...

I never changed the washer on my '94 Excel, either. If it was
"crushable", it never crushed. ;-)
 
Rev. Tom Wenndt said:
The groove in the middle should go "out" as you place it on the drain plug -
it will eventually be the side that goes against the oil pan. That is one
of those "crush-able" o-rings, and that groove is what provides the seal.

Key is to ALWAYS make sure you replace these crushable o-rings with every
oil change. After they have been deformed that first time, if you try to
re-use it, it will leak.
Click to expand...

Is the drain plug different on the V-6 vs. the I-4?

Matt
 
Rev. Tom Wenndt said:
You have me laughing at that, because often I have accused "fast oil change"
mechanics of using the occasion to tighten the drain plug to do their
chin-up exercises - it is unbelievable how tight that drain plug is when
anybody other than me does the oil change.

Usually I only use two or three fingers on the wrench.

But still, if I forget to change that O-ring (which I have done twice), they
have leaked.
Click to expand...

I re-used the washer on my 4 cylinder Sonata as I didn't have one for
the first oil change. No leak at all. I bought a bag with the case of
filters I ordered online, but I don't see any problem re-using them a
few times. The washer on my Chevy truck is the OEM washer and has been
through 18 changes now.

Matt
 
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