Oil Filter price

OK, I hit 6,000 miles and did my first oil change myself (the first was a
freebie from the dealer where I purchased tha car).

My dealer wanted $19 for the cartridge filter on the '06 V6 Sonata WITHOUT
the O-rings (wanted another $2 for the 2 O-rings). A total of $21.

So before purchasing I called another dealer which actually happens to be
closer to my home, but in a pretty bad area. Anyway, they quoted my $6.82
for the filter AND the O-rings. However, when I got there, we found that
he apparently made a mistake and it was acutally $10.50 for the kit. Still
much better than the other dealer. He also threw in the washers for the
oil drain plug. I bought two kits from him for less than one would have
cost at the original dealer.

The oil change was really a piece of cake. I really like the canister
filter. Much easier than having to lay on your back and try to crank the
thing off with a filter wrench.

The only extra step is working to get the old O-rings off the spindle. The
tiny one was particularly annoying, but I managed to get it with a pair of
needle nose pliers. Putting the new O-rings on was easy.

I did need to add a full 6 quarts of Mobil 1 to get it up to the full mark
on the dip stick. It cost me $30 for oil as I was unable to find a sale.
I will be watching the sale fliers in the future and probably buying by the
case if I can.

Anyway, just thought I would share. Sorry for the long post.

Eric

 

Pays to shop around, eh? Does NAPA carry filters yet for your 06? They
might be cheaper yet and likely higher quality to boot. My 2.4L still
uses the spin-on filter, but I haven't yet changed the oil (1800 miles
now), but will soon. I plan to change at 2500 using dino oil again and
then switch to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and change at my usual 5,000 mile
intervals after that.

My local dealer offered me a free oil change if I give them all top
scores on the survey I'm supposed to receive following the "recall" work
that was done on my car (replacing the seat recline handle, rubber in
the cup holder, trim pieces in the door handles and adding extra glue to
the headliner in the rear seat area). I asked him for three free oil
filters instead as I change my own and he agreed to that. However, I
have yet to get the survey so he may not get the results back before I
need my first oil filter! In that case, I'll likely buy a NAPA Gold if
they have them on hand in time. The price will likely be similar or
less than the $9 wanted by the dealer, and the Gold is a pretty good
filter from all accounts I've read.


Matt

 

For the price I paid, I will probably stick to the Hyundai filter for a
while. I did check NAPA and Advanced Auto and both told me to not
expect a filter until after the summer at the earliest.

One thing I did discover at the auto parts stores was that apparently GM
(Chevy to be exact) is also starting to use canister filters on a couple
of models. One of them was the same length and OD, but had a smaller ID
than mine. Not that I would have used it if it did match, but it was
interesting to see other auto makers also going with the canister. That
filter was at NAPA and only cost $1 less than the Hyundai filter, but
did not have any O-rings in the box (maybe not needed on the Chevy?).

I may also switch to a longer interval using the synthetic, but I
haven't decided for sure yet.

I also remember reading about your mud flaps. The dealer where I
purchased the car told me it would be $129 for the 4 mud flaps. He told
me there were 4 different part numbers. I passed on that while I was
there. When I came home I looked on Hyundais web site and it showed
only 2 part numbers (1 front pair and 1 rear pair). While I was on-line
I ordered the mud flaps from the same dealer that gave me the cheaper
oil filter and paid only $59-something for the two pairs.

What amazes me about these two dealers is that the one that is cheaper
on the parts will not budge on the price of a new car, while the other
dealer gave me the car for exactly what I wanted to pay (after a bit of
haggling) but rips off customers for the parts. Go figure.

Eric

 

Wow, $129! Yes, only two part numbers as you found out. I paid
$20/pair with the total being about $8 and that included the shipping!
I've since ordered the hood deflector from them and have been pleased
with both orders. They came quickly and the prices can't be beat.

Matt

 

The kit (Oil filter and O rings in a box) was ~$12 here in Wilmington, NC.
According to the parts book, the oil filter is not a separate item. It's
only sold as a kit. Part number 26320-3C100. Also, Purolator will have one
out in about a Month. Part number L35610. I talked to an engineer at the
plant in Fayetteville, and they are about to start production. Apparently, a
given type of filter is not made continuously - and this has not been made
before. They tool up, make four trillion of whatever filter, and move on to
the next that they need sock of.

5 Quart jug of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart is usually $20.00. But two, and the
second jug will last you five oil changes at 1 quart per. I've been using
Wal-Mart supertech full synthetic with no problems. That runs between $9
and $12 for 5 quarts. I just got rid of a 2003 Malibu with 60 K miles on it
that was run since 10k with that in it. I peeked in the valve cover, and it
was very clean, as was the innards of the oil filter mount. No leaks,
either. It's packaged by Warren Performance Products. It is really Quaker
State http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/23945_1.pdf

 

It is odd that Hyundai chose a 6 quart capacity for the new V-6. I
wonder of the top-o-the-engine canister filter required more capacity.
I'm glad my 4 cylinder uses less that 5 quarts so I can get one change
per 5 quart jug. Even the big old American V-8s got by with 5 quarts,
at least the ones I remember.


Matt

 

A simplistic way to say it, but..... ~20% more oil molecules to break down
before you are out of useable molecules can't be a bad thing. I believe that
oil wear, and not dirt is the primary reason diesels have so much more oil
in them. Another question... Does all the oil drain out of the filter
between starts? There doesn't seem to be any check valve like on a normal
filter, and it doesn't have any oil in it when you open it. If so, does this
mean the engine is starting dry every time? As far as the canister causing
the need for more capacity, the total volume of it seems to be the same as a
normal filter.

 

Eric G. said: "One thing I did discover at the auto parts stores was that
apparently GM (Chevy to be exact) is also starting to use canister filters
on a couple of models. One of them was the same length and OD, but had a
smaller ID than mine. Not that I would have used it if it did match, but it
was interesting to see other auto makers also going with the canister. That
filter was at NAPA and only cost $1 less than the Hyundai filter, but did
not have any O-rings in the box (maybe not needed on the Chevy?)."......

GM's increasingly common 2.2 L4 Ecotech engine uses a canister, located on
the top of the engine. It DOES use an O-ring, but all of the filters I have
purchased already have it pre-assembled into the top of the filter. Once
you get used to the idea that it is NOT a spin-on, you start to like
replacing this - a lot.

Tom Wenndt

 

I understand the simplistic answer, I just don't see the need,
especially since they didn't go to longer change intervals. My only
thought is that the canister system requires more oil.

Diesels use more oil because it needs to suspend a lot more particulate
matter than a gas engine. Look how black the oil in a diesel gets and
how fast it gets black. The fuel is a lot dirtier and more carbon
particulate matter is created during combustion.


Matt

 

Try https://www.hyundaipartsonline.com
I purchased a case of filters ( 10 ) for my 04 Santa Fe for appox.$45.00

Striker

 

I've noticed that the oil seems to drain out of the canister in a few
minutes. If I pull the car in and immediately remove the top of the
canister, I get oil all over the place. But if I drain the oil first, go
to parts and get the new oil filter, then return, finish on the bottom of
the car and remove the top of the canister, it's empty.