Sonata Audio Install Woes HELP PLEASE!

  • Thread starter Thread starter njwashor
  • Start date Start date
N

njwashor

Hi.

Got a question for you all. I have become quite frustrated and need
direction. Here goes:

I have a 2003 Hyundai Sonata LX with Premium Sound (Cassette and CD).
I bought a JVC KD-DV5100 Deck.
The Deck came with an HWH-1102 wiring harness.

I wired everything up correctly and there really are no shorts (so
please don't go telling me I have a short, unless you are just making a
joke at me ;)).

The deck turns on and functions correctly. The CD plays, the FM Tunes.

***No Sound comes through speakers***

When I put my old deck back in, sound works fine.

NOW HERE IS THE INTERRESTING PART:

Counting the wires in the harness that is physically wired to the car,
there are 15 wires. I looked on Hyundai's site for any information as
to explain which wires are for what systems in the car. Not any good
info there that is readable(www.hmaservice.com).

Counting the number of wires coming from the HWH-1102 harness, there
are only 14 wires.

This means one wire in my car is not being connected to anything when I
use the adapter harness.

I am now at the point where I believe this one wire is the reason my
speakers are making no noise when I connect the new stereo, but they
work fine when I connect the old stereo.

The wires that I have connected from the car are as follows:
Left Front Pos
Left Front Neg
Right Front Pos
Right Front Neg
Left Rear Pos
Left Rear Neg
Right Rear Pos
Right Rear Neg
Ignition Power
Battery Power
Ground (Black)
Power Antenna
Illumination Control
Dimmer Ground (I have been grounding this wire, as the deck does not
have an input for this wire.)

The wires from the deck that are not connected to the car system are:
Parking Break (I have this grounded)

I am going off of memory, but I believe that is all the wiring info.

So to reiterate:

The new deck works fine, except no audio comes out.
The old deck works 100% fine.
The old deck receives 15 wires from the car.
The new deck's adapter harness only receives 14 wires from the car (one
wire is not connected)

Does anyone know what this mystery wire is, and is this what is causing
my pain and suffering?

Sincerely,

Nathan
 
Do you know if your car has an external amp, and if so, is the radio you
purchased suitable for an external amp?
 
I have the premium sound package from the factory (does that mean I
have an amp?) Also, I have not installed or had an external amp
installed since I bought it new from the dealer.
 
This information came from a different thread, and I wanted to post it
here for future people to be able to read:

Your car may have a factory amp the is not letting the signal get to
the
speakers. See if that American International harness has a "amp remote"
wire
and hook that to the amp remote wire on the JVC. Some of the JVC's only
have
1 remote wire that does both amp remote and power antenna. If it only
has
the one remote output hook that to the amp remote on the AI harness
 
trying hooking up the + and - speaker wires to the RCA outputs on your
new head unit ... leave volume all the way down
turn everything on and slowly turn up the volume ... it should kick in
at a very low volume setting ... but yea your symptoms sound like it
uses an external amp ... and the spare wire would be the amps signal
wire ... for testing hook that wire up with your power antenna output
wire .. and it should have sound ... if sound is real quiet or none at
all.. it may be a "high level" external amp ... in that case run
speakers how you originally had them ...
 
| Hi.
|
| The deck turns on and functions correctly. The CD plays, the
FM Tunes.
|
| ***No Sound comes through speakers***
|

The quick and dirty electronics pro test would be to substitute
one or two speakers. It's easiest to do this on a workbench,
especially if you've got 12v DC power, such as an old car battery
that's charged up. Hell, a pack of 9 D-sized flashlight batteries
will probably work fine for this purpose, too.

I assume that you received some sort of diagram with the unit, so
if you find the speaker lines, you can jury rig a connection to
your speakers and see if you can get any sound into them. The
impedance of those speakers won't be critical so long as you
avoid cranking the thing up real loud. Don't run it for a long
time with the leads unconnected or connected to the wrong
impedance speaker (hint: car speakers and home speakers aren't
the same impedance).

What you want to determine is whether your output transistors are
blown or not. Many circuits don't have protection, so if they've
been run into a short circuit, even for a fraction of a second,
they may be fried. One strand of a wire touching the other is a
short circuit.

You could also have the thing set on some sort of auxilliary
input. I don't know; there are a few different possible simple
mis-settings that will kill the audio, so look for any of these.
For example, does the thing have a "mute" switch, and is it
engaged? In other words, take a deep breath and apply common
sense by elimination. It's easier to do this on a workbench than
in the car. Test with the radio rather than the CD at first, but
ensure that you've got some sort of antenna connected! The unit
may mute between stations and be fooling you that way.

In this manner, I have permanently healed your pain. That will be
$35; see my receptionist on the way out. Unfortunately, we had a
sale on suffering last week; so sorry: suffering's full price.

Richard
 
Hahaha, that was a funny last paragraph...

Thanks Guys. The problem was that one wire. The Factory Amp (which I
didn't even know I had, hehe) had a remote lead that the adapter for my
car (HWH-1102) was not connecting to. The hole in the adapter was
there, just no wire running through it.

So to fix this issue, I took one of an ISO connector's wires
(butchering the connector as I had no need for it), and ran it into the
HWH-1102 in the hole that should have been connecting to the car's
remote amp lead. I then split the antenna/remote lead coming off of
the JVC deck to fead both the antenna lead of the car and the remote
amp lead of the car (the new wire).

I grounded the parking break lead to the chassis so DVD playback works
while in motion, but now it appears my dimmer ground is not correctly
grounded (I grounded this to the chassis too, but I guess I should have
grounded it to the negative ground on the battery). I'll fix that when
I install the touch panel LCD monitor in my dash :)

Thanks for your comments.

Nathan
 
Nate said:
Hahaha, that was a funny last paragraph...

Thanks Guys. The problem was that one wire. The Factory Amp (which I
didn't even know I had, hehe) had a remote lead that the adapter for my
car (HWH-1102) was not connecting to. The hole in the adapter was
there, just no wire running through it.

So to fix this issue, I took one of an ISO connector's wires
(butchering the connector as I had no need for it), and ran it into the
HWH-1102 in the hole that should have been connecting to the car's
remote amp lead. I then split the antenna/remote lead coming off of
the JVC deck to fead both the antenna lead of the car and the remote
amp lead of the car (the new wire).

I grounded the parking break lead to the chassis so DVD playback works
while in motion, but now it appears my dimmer ground is not correctly
grounded (I grounded this to the chassis too, but I guess I should have
grounded it to the negative ground on the battery). I'll fix that when
I install the touch panel LCD monitor in my dash :)

Thanks for your comments.

Nathan
Click to expand...

Fix the DVD-enable wire. You hit and hurt/kill somebody and it can be
the difference between a $150 traffic ticket and life imprisonment...

They recently tried to nail a kid over his indash DVD and running
into/over somebody, people died. Luckily in his case the DVD player had
been wired correctly and the dead people's case was 'destroyed' at that
point...

Otherwise the guy would be Bruce's bitch for the rest of your life. I
dunno how you swing, but I doubt its the way Bruce wants you to...

JS
 
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