Sonata LX and XG350 owners - what mpg are you averaging?

Discussion in 'Hyundai Sonata' started by Robin, Jan 4, 2004.

  1. Robin

    Robin Guest

    city and Hwy.... Also, if new to Hyandai, has your insurance rate
    remained similar to last car, or increase or decrease?
    Robin, Jan 4, 2004
  2. Robin

    Jason Guest

    I've got an 03 Sonata LX. I drive the car normally 90% of the time
    but I also lean into it occasionally. I tend to average about 20-21
    mpg. That's mostly "city" driving (35-60 mph, at least 1 stop per
    mile). When I take longer trips where I can cruise at 75 mph then I
    tend to get about 25-26 mpg.
    Jason, Jan 4, 2004
  3. Robin

    BJ Guest

    Have a 2003 Sonata with 2.7 engine that gets poor mileage. My mileage runs
    from 15.5 to a best ever of 18.5 mpg. 90% of my driving is in town.
    Insurance rate with up $160.00 per year on Sonata over Chrysler T&C.
    BJ, Jan 4, 2004
  4. Robin

    Old_Timer Guest

    My Sonata is the 2000 GLS V6. I get 20-22 City and a top of 28MPG

    Old_Timer, Jan 4, 2004
  5. Robin

    Robin Guest

    You may have read Jason's response that he averages 20-21mpg city. Is
    there something in the way you drive that might account for the poor
    mileage? Have you taken it in to the dealer to check for a malfunction
    that might be correctable?
    Robin, Jan 4, 2004
  6. Robin

    jc Guest

    I have a 2003 Sonata LX V6. In mostly city driving I get right around
    20 mpg. On the highway, driving about 70-75 mph, I've gotten as much as
    28 mpg. Cruise control definitely helps the mileage.

    jc, Jan 4, 2004
  7. Robin

    Jason Guest

    It's worth mentioning that I have a K&N Drop-In Filter installed which
    adds another 0.5-1.0 MPG (depending on how you drive) and another 2-3

    As for getting 15.5-18.5 MPG, you're either beating the hell out of
    that car, driving in 1st and 2nd gear at cruising speeds, or there's
    something wrong with your car. If you're driving like a normal human
    being then take that car to the dealer and have them give it a look.
    Jason, Jan 5, 2004
  8. Robin

    Robin Guest

    Regarding the K&N drop in filter, I'm unfamiliar with this as I am with
    anything having to do with the mechanics of a car, but is this something
    that can be used in any make car?
    1) If I should decide against purchasing a Sonata, and go for one of my
    other two choices (an Accord XLV6 or Altima), can that filter be used
    and would it be to any significant advantage since, if I'm not mistaken,
    the HP is higher in those cars than Sonata?
    2) If I should decide for a Hyundai XG350, would it be compatible? One
    of the main reasons I'm leaning away from this car is the reported city
    mpg of only 17.
    3) Are you the same Jason that's active on the misc.consumers NG?
    Robin, Jan 5, 2004
  9. Robin

    theta00k Guest

    K&N filter will not give any horsepower boost to any Honda, Hyundai or
    whatever. Please do not use that filter on any car as it passes more
    contaminants than the OE filter.
    theta00k, Jan 5, 2004
  10. Robin

    Jason Guest

    1. The filter I'm talking about is the air filter. K&N makes a part
    for almost every vehicle so yes, you can get one for the Sonata, XG,
    or Accord.

    Most newer cars have very restrictive intake and exhaust systems. The
    K&N air filter is more free-flowing than the stock factory parts used
    by most manufacturers. In addition, it is not a disposable filter.
    It does need to be periodically cleaned but this is a task that only
    needs to be done every 20-30K miles unless you live in a very dusty
    area. Less restriction in either the intake and exhaust will add
    power as well as gas mileage.

    2. The filters will, most likely, not be identical so you would need
    to decide on what vehicle you are going to get before you buy the
    filter. You can check on the needed part number @ the K&N web site

    3. No, the only other NG I frequent is alt.os.linux.gentoo. I do,
    however, frequent several online message boards: [H]ard|Forum for
    tech stuff, HyundaiPerformance, HyundaiAftermarket, NewTiburon, and
    SonataSpeed for Hyundai stuff.
    Jason, Jan 6, 2004
  11. Robin

    Jason Guest

    Not true on either count. While it's true that the aftermarket
    filters you find at PepBoys or AutoZone for $9.99 are crap, K&N
    filters are race tested and are recommended by everyone who knows
    anything about automobiles.

    It's widely known (and easily proved) that reducing restriction in the
    intake and exhaust systems WILL increase power and WILL increase gas

    As for passing more contaminates, than the OE filter, I don't believe
    it. There is a standardized testing procedure for filtration (SAE
    J726). Most OE paper filters fall between 93-97%, K&N cotton filters
    hover between 97-99%.
    Jason, Jan 6, 2004
  12. Robin

    Luca Guest

    Jason said the following on 1/5/2004 7:23 PM:
    Will they void the warranty in any way? I am concerned about this.
    Luca, Jan 6, 2004
  13. Robin

    theta00k Guest

    2000 Toyota Tundra SR5

    Engine: 4.7 L / 8 cyl / Gas / DOHC
    Fuel: Fuel Injection
    Ignition: Distributorless
    Trans: 4-speed Automatic Transmission (Electronic)
    Mileage: 26,434 mi
    Emissions: OBD-II Compliant
    VIN: 5TBBT441XYS047306

    Symptoms: MIL Lamp on
    Occurs: Idle
    More Info: Test results & repair history included below

    _______________________ CLOSED W/FIX _______________________

    hi all thanks for all the replies to this post. i knew all
    about the maf problems but was glad to hear from all of you
    about what i suspected all along. the problem wasnt the
    maf,it was the aftermarket k&n intake system that 'adds
    horsepower' lol. i compaired the g/s with another tundra
    that happened to come in the next day and found that at
    idle the K&N system saw 2g/s less at idle and 4g/s less at
    2k rpm. decided to swap maf for fun. maf worked grate in oe
    intake no problems. ordered up oe intake system installed
    and drove vehicle fuel trim adjusted its self back to 0.
    with after market intake too much unmetered air was
    entering the intake system causing all 4 o2 sensors to show
    0v on aceleration. with the suport of the iatn was able to
    show and convince the customer that the K&N intake dosent
    alwas help and sometimes cause problems. thanks hugh

    _____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE _____________________

    hi all got this tundra in the shop strait from the
    dealer.well it left the dealer about 400 miles ago.the
    problem is system too lean fuel trim code.let me tell you
    what i know about this truck first. i beleave that this is
    a rich kids truck. customer states that he was off roading
    in the desert when his aftermarket k$n intake fell off and
    sucked a bunch of sand in the engine. result daeler
    installed new engine. customer pay about 11k. now he states
    that check engine light on with p0171. peformed smoke test
    to check for vac leak none found. manifold vacuum is
    21hg.engine stlii equiped withk$n intake and dealer
    recomends oe air intake to solve the problem? freez frame
    data is 692rpm 0mph 192f 11.3load ltftb1&b2=34.4 stftb115.6
    b214.8 fuel press normal maf reading 4grm/sec the only
    other thing to add is that i noticed on the scaner that all
    4 o2 sensors went to 0 when climbing a hill? any and all
    help apriceated.
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE

    Engine: 3.5 L / 6 cyl / Gas / DOHC
    Fuel: Fuel Injection / SEFI
    Ignition: Distributorless
    Trans: 4-speed Automatic Transmission (Electronic)
    Mileage: 48,665 mi
    Emissions: OBD-II Compliant
    VIN: JN8DR09Y51

    Misc Data: Calif.
    Symptoms: Cuts out, Stall, MIL Lamp on
    Occurs: Always
    More Info: Test results & repair history included below

    _______________________ CLOSED W/FIX _______________________

    A new (rebuilt actually) MAF fixed it. All the evidence was
    there, but I appreciate everybody's input. It really was
    fairly cut and dry. 12v was good, 5v was good, ground was
    good, but the MAF signal wouldn't change at all. I checked
    it right out of the sensor and it was always right at 1
    volt. I felt checking at the sensor ruled out wiring or PCM
    problems. I don't think I mentioned in my original post
    that it had a K & N air filter. Today I noticed on a 98
    Sable a message molded into the air filter box that oiled
    air filters might void the MAF warranty. I guess Ford
    doesn't like them. Ther were signs of oil on the screen in
    the MAF housing.

    Nissan and some of you said this should be covered 3
    years/50,000 miles. The customer refused to take it to the
    dealer, which is unfortunate, because I have found our
    local deater to be responsible and capable. Thanks

    _____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE _____________________

    Vehicle was cruising down the highway when Check Engine
    light came on. Then it started running bad. After they
    stopped, vehicle wouldn't run. Actually, it will idle, but
    when throttle is applied, it coughs and dies, like a not-
    enough-fuel problem. P0100 and P1320 were in memory. In
    pending codes were:

    P0340: Cam positon sensor

    P0464: Fuel level sensor

    P1140: Right bank intake valve timing control position

    P0732: Incorrect shift to 2nd gear

    P1320 and P0100

    The only code that comes back after clearing is P0100, MAF

    In testing the 4 wires, 3 are OK: Blk/wht-bat. voltage,
    blk/pink-ground,pink/blk-5 v.

    The orange wire, however should vary from 1 v at KOEO to
    2.2 v at 2500 RPM to 4.0 v at 4000 RPM.

    I am only getting 1 v all the time. Actually, it won't run
    much above 1500 RPM before it falls on it's face.

    It looks like a bad MAF, but at $488 I need to be sure. Is
    there anything else I should check? Does this fall under
    any kind of federal emission warranty?

    I am inclined to ignore the other codes until I deal with
    the P0100.

    Thanks for any input.
    1999 Toyota Tacoma

    Engine: 3.4 L / 6 cyl / Gas / DOHC
    Fuel: Fuel Injection
    Ignition: Distributorless
    Trans: 5-speed Standard Transmission
    Mileage: 36,463 mi
    Emissions: OBD-II Compliant
    VIN: 4TAWN72N3XZ

    Symptoms: Poor Fuel Economy, MIL Lamp on
    Occurs: Always
    More Info: Test results & repair history included below

    _______________________ CLOSED W/FIX _______________________

    Thanks to IATN, another customer is driving his REPAIRED
    vehile with a minimum of trouble or unnecessary expense. I
    replaced the MAF, re-scanned the vehicle, and as the ECU
    re-established its running information, watched as it
    brought the LTFT back to a more normal range. The idle
    started out very rough at first, which concerned me, but
    after 20 minutes of normal driving, it smoothed out, and
    the LTFT went from -40% ) -35% )-20% ) -9.4% and was
    running very nicely as the happy customer drove off. By the
    way, I was able to talk him into putting a Toyota air
    filter back into the vehicle as well. Thanks to everyone
    for the help and advice! Stephen

    _____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE _____________________

    This Tacoma will trigger the DTC light very soon after
    erasing the PO 172 code-system too rich. OBD 2 scaning
    shows the LTFT trying to lean out the system as much as 40%
    @ idle, and less as the load/throttle use increases. I am
    not able to find any information on the air/fuel sensor,
    and the scanner does not provide any information when
    plugged in. Does anyone have a recommendation to test the
    units, either with a scanner or current probe? Thanks for
    your time
    1996 Toyota Tacoma

    Engine: 2.7 L / 4 cyl / Gas / DOHC
    Fuel: Fuel Injection
    Ignition: Distributor-Breakerless
    Trans: 5-speed Standard Transmission
    Mileage: 75,134 mi
    Emissions: OBD-II Compliant
    VIN: 4TAPM62NOTZ212410

    Symptoms: No Start, MIL Lamp on
    Occurs: After a Hot Soak
    More Info: Test results & repair history included below

    _______________________ CLOSED W/FIX _______________________

    Well thanks again to the IATN members for help of another
    successful fix! The problem was an oil contaminated hotwire
    (air flow meter) the oil was from a K&N air filter. I
    cleaned it with brake clean and then test drove while
    monitoring the STFT and LTFT, the STFT immediatly dropped
    from 25 percent to a negative 3 percent, the LTFT of course
    was a little slower to respond but also started dropping
    negative. Repair verified! Thanks to all who responded!

    _____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE _____________________

    This vehicle has power loss and intermittently starts hard
    (extended crank times) especially after hot soak. Although
    the customer has intalled an aftermarket intake system (not
    intake manifold) the factory airflow meter and air intake
    temp sensor are installed. The fuel pressure is within
    specs and does not bleed down. The O2 sensors also check
    good. The scan tool shows the airflow at idle at about
    3.5-3.7 g/s, is this correct? For some reason the Snap-On
    scanner does not give me "normal values" for this vehicle.
    All ideas are appreciated and TIA.
    theta00k, Jan 6, 2004
  14. Robin

    Jason Guest

    Adding aftermarket parts (ANY aftermarket parts) cannot be cause for
    the dealer to void the warranty on your car. What will happen,
    however, is that you will lose the warranty on the part you replace
    (which isn't really applicable in this case). For example, if you
    were to replace the lower resonator, air box, intake tube, and upper
    resonator on a Sonata LX with an AEM CAI (made for the Tiburon, most
    V6 Tib parts will fit the 02-04 V6 Sonata) you would lose the warranty
    on all the parts you removed. The remainder of the warranty can only
    be voided if your aftermarket modifications caused another part to
    fail. For example, if you install a CAI (without a bypass valve) and
    you suck up a gallon of water by driving through a 6 inch "puddle" and
    your engine hydrolocks, your CAI (and poor driving habits) are at
    fault, the dealer will not cover the replacement engine and labor. If
    your alternator dies the dealer can't void the warranty because there
    is no way that a CAI caused that problem.

    Back on the part at hand, there is no way that a quality aftermarket
    air filter can void any part of any warranty, in fact, many dealers
    offer aftermarket parts (that don't void the warranty) as dealer

    Along that line, on January 15th, select Hyundai dealerships in the
    USA will begin selling aftermarket parts (like new exhaust systems,
    intake modifications, superchargers and turbochargers, body kits,
    etc.) badged under the name "H.A.R.D. Parts." This plan was announced
    at SEMA.
    Jason, Jan 6, 2004
  15. Robin

    Jason Guest

    Those people are stupid. First of all, oil should not be dripping off
    of the filter. Second, when re-oiling the filter you spray on the
    outside (so that the oil must pass through the filter). Third, it
    sounds more like the person had a full intake system (like K&N's
    Typhoon of FPIK). That means that they removed the entire stock
    intake up to the throttle body and replaced it with the K&N product.
    The problem here is obvious.. Engine vibration (combined with
    off-roading) WILL pull a cone filter right off the end of a tube
    unless you crank it down REAL tight. The fault here is not K&N, the
    blame lies with whoever installed the intake.

    I've been using K&N filters for years and have never had a problem.
    In fact, I just pulled apart my intake tube. There is not a drop of
    oil on my MAF.

    Oh, and you should NEVER, NEVER install a cone filter right to the end
    of the MAF. It is well known that this will cause problems because
    the increased air flow will cause quite a bit of vibration. The MAF
    should be at least 4-6 inches from a cone filter.


    Jason, Jan 6, 2004
  16. Robin

    Briggs Guest

    I haven't checked in awhile, but my XG 350 seems to average about 25 hwy,
    18-20 city. The lack of a computer setting that shows current and average
    mpg is one of my main reservations about my '02 model. Not positive, but I
    believe the feature was added in '03.
    Briggs, Jan 6, 2004
  17. Robin

    Steve W. Guest

    So are the people who blindly believe that K&Ns magically increase power
    by just replacing a filter. CANNOT HAPPEN. The stock paper element will
    flow much more air than the engine can ever draw in, So if you already
    have to much air how can a higher flowing filter make a difference, It
    cannot. Also you do know that it K&N themselves explain that their
    filters let in more "non-harmful" (their words not mine) particles than
    a factory filter. It is on their site that they don't consider particles
    under a certain size to be a problem because the oil film "should" be
    thicker than that size. I guess those particles couldn't ever stack up
    and cause problems huh? Oh and before you start bragging about the
    racers using the K&N consider that race engines are torn down after an
    event and any item considered marginal is replaced, this works out to be
    just about everything in the engine short of the block, heads, intake
    and sometimes the crank. These parts are also magnafluxed and
    repolished every time they come off as well. The BIG reason the K&N gets
    used is that they hand them out for very low price to most racers who
    use them.
    Also make sure you read how their filter also filters better as it gets
    dirty, hmm I wonder if that's because the dirt clogs the larger pore in
    the gauze?
    Oh and I don't have anything against K&N other than they very seldom
    prove their claims. Kind of like slick 50 and the Vortex inserts, claim
    everything with the statements that all start with "up to" or
    "possible". Well it is "possible",if you add up all the gains, to gain
    almost 50% more HP and use 70% less fuel IF they all met even the lowest
    claims they make, Guess what it doesn't happen.

    "A well regulated militia being necessary to the
    security of a free State, the right of the people to keep
    and bear arms shall not be infringed."
    Steve Williams
    I am the NRA Go here to read the truth about gun
    controls poster boy.... And more about the Arming
    America Lies.

    Steve W., Jan 6, 2004
  18. 16 City, 24 Hwy @ 75MPH, XG300L

    Fred, W8OY
    Prefered Customer, Jan 6, 2004
  19. Robin

    Jason Guest

    If you don't trust K&N, that's fine, don't use their products. Still,
    they DO make a difference in MPG and HP. Have you ever used a K&N air
    filter? Back when I decided to give K&N a try I was a little
    skeptical as well. That's why I decided to install the filter without
    my girlfriend's knowledge. I let her drive the Sonata to go out to
    the grocery store. The first thing she said when she got back was
    "Did you do something to the car? It seems a little peppier."

    It's not about the quantity of O2 you can cram into the cylinders,
    it's about eliminating restriction. Sure, you can stick a 1" exhaust
    pipe on a 3.0L engine but the car isn't going to make any serious
    power above 2500 RPM. The best size would be 2.25-2.5" because it can
    easily flow the exhaust at redline but maintains enough back pressure
    to keep your low-end torque.

    Why did people a decade or two ago remove the catalytic converters
    (before inspections came about) from their cars? It was because the
    cats are very restrictive and replacing them with a straight pipe
    freed up 5-15 HP (depending on a few other factors) and increased gas

    The same principle goes to work here on the intake. By eliminating
    restriction in the intake you can free up some power and slightly
    increase gas mileage.

    Oh, and yes, particles under a few microns in size will not do any
    damage to the engine because the you change the oil every 3000 miles
    (or at least you should). Also, Slick 50 is mineral oil and the
    Vortex and Tornado Air products don't work on fuel injected vehicles
    but HAVE shown some promising results when installed on carbureted
    Jason, Jan 7, 2004
  20. Robin

    Old_Timer Guest

    Are we talking about race cars or about family transportation
    vehicles. I would have no reason whatsoever to try to get a couple
    more horsepower out of my family car. Hyundai extended the warranty
    on my Sonata because the tested HP was a little bit less than the
    published HP. I gladly accepted the extra warranty but I had no grief
    at all in regard to the published HP and the tested HP. The car, a
    V6, has all the power that I need in a family car. Had I been
    interested in having a car with a more powerful engine I would have
    bought something that had a larger more powerful engine.

    Old_Timer, Jan 7, 2004
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