Squealing Sound On Cold Starts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guncho
  • Start date Start date
G

Guncho

Ever since I got the a few belts replaced, my 1999 Hyundai Accent GSI
squeals like a pig when it's cold. This usually lasts for about a
minute and then goes away. I also hear this squeal occasionally if I
turn the wheel all the way one way or the other.

What is this? And is it something that has to be fixed or can wait a
while.

My manual mentions something about the front disc brakes having
indicators that make a high pitched squeal if the brakes need
replacing. Is this the problem?

Chris
 
Guncho said:
Ever since I got the a few belts replaced, my 1999 Hyundai Accent GSI
squeals like a pig when it's cold. This usually lasts for about a
minute and then goes away. I also hear this squeal occasionally if I
turn the wheel all the way one way or the other.

What is this? And is it something that has to be fixed or can wait a
while.
Click to expand...

Turning the wheel uses the power steering pump. I don't know about your
model, but many of them have an nternal pressure relief valve that will
squeal when full over to one side or the other. It would not normally make
any noise when not turning. Squeal can come from a defective idler pully
bearing, pump or alternator bearing, pully mis-alignment, worn belt, too
tight a belt.
My manual mentions something about the front disc brakes having
indicators that make a high pitched squeal if the brakes need
replacing. Is this the problem?
Click to expand...

The wear indicators are only heard when the car is moving.
 
Turning the wheel uses the power steering pump. I don't know about your
model, but many of them have an nternal pressure relief valve that will
squeal when full over to one side or the other. It would not normally make
any noise when not turning. Squeal can come from a defective idler pully
bearing, pump or alternator bearing, pully mis-alignment, worn belt, too
tight a belt.




The wear indicators are only heard when the car is moving.
Click to expand...

I think it is the power steering belt as it is the exact same sound as
when I turn the wheel all the way to the left or right.

Next time I get an oil change, I'll get them to check it out.

Chris
 
More likely, it’s the alternator belt. The alternator belt drives the
water pump, which in turn, via the power steering belt, drives the
power steering pump. The alternator belts on Hyundais need to be
tensioned very tight to keep them from squealing. Usually, any
movement of the belt when applying light finger pressure (with car
off!) will lead to a squeak or squeal
 
More likely, it's the alternator belt. The alternator belt drives the
water pump, which in turn, via the power steering belt, drives the
power steering pump. The alternator belts on Hyundais need to be
tensioned very tight to keep them from squealing. Usually, any
movement of the belt when applying light finger pressure (with car
off!) will lead to a squeak or squeal.
Click to expand...

Actually come to think of it, the battery light gets brighter on the
dash when there's squealing.

Is this a pressing thing to fix or a "Get to it next time I get an oil
change"?

Chris
 
Is the water pump leaking? Check for fluid on the belt.
Click to expand...

It did this last winter as well so I doubt it's the water pump
leaking. If it was, wouldn't the car be dead by now?

Chris
 
Guncho said:
Actually come to think of it, the battery light gets brighter on the
dash when there's squealing.

Is this a pressing thing to fix or a "Get to it next time I get an oil
change"?
Click to expand...

That's the CO2 sensor going off Chris. It's advising you of an inadequate
supply of CO2 for proper operation.

Ok - that was my attempt to be humorous. You battery light is getting
brighter because it is not being charged properly by the alternator. The
more intermittent the charge, the dimmer the light will appear to be. The
more the problem persists, the brighter the light will be. I'm a believer
in fixing things when they are not working properly. You can find yourself
stranded if you delay something this simple now. You won't necessarily
cause bigger problems or component failures, but if you're driving at night
in the rain and cold, and you're putting a heavy load on the
battery/charging system, you could suddenly find yourself past the point of
the battery's ability to run the car. Adjust the belt and be done with it.
It's a simple thing to do, takes minutes, and it then becomes one more thing
that you don't have to fool with while doing that oil change.
 
Mike Marlow said:
Ok - that was my attempt to be humorous. You battery light is getting
brighter because it is not being charged properly by the alternator. The
more intermittent the charge, the dimmer the light will appear to be. The
more the problem persists, the brighter the light will be.
Click to expand...

That is correct, but so counter-intuitive. Just think how low the electric
bill would be if less power meant brighter bulbs.
 
That's the CO2 sensor going off Chris. It's advising you of an inadequate
supply of CO2 for proper operation.

Ok - that was my attempt to be humorous. You battery light is getting
brighter because it is not being charged properly by the alternator. The
more intermittent the charge, the dimmer the light will appear to be. The
more the problem persists, the brighter the light will be.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty confused about here. Normally, my battery and Emergency
brake lights on my dash, flicker in relation to the RPM's of the
engine. (My alternator got a "Yellow" rating from a garage so I'm
assuming that means it's not working perfectly but is still
functioning and will probably need fixing at some point.) Both lights
get brighter when the engine is squealing.

I'm a believer
in fixing things when they are not working properly. You can find yourself
stranded if you delay something this simple now. You won't necessarily
cause bigger problems or component failures, but if you're driving at night
in the rain and cold, and you're putting a heavy load on the
battery/charging system, you could suddenly find yourself past the point of
the battery's ability to run the car. Adjust the belt and be done with it.
It's a simple thing to do, takes minutes, and it then becomes one more thing
that you don't have to fool with while doing that oil change.
Click to expand...

Well the reason for not fixing it right away is money. I don't do any
repairs myself or oil changes. Any trip to the garage is going to
cost me money and it's cheaper if you combine two things instead of
making two trips.

Chris
 
I'm pretty confused about here. Normally, my battery and Emergency
brake lights on my dash, flicker in relation to the RPM's of the
engine. (My alternator got a "Yellow" rating from a garage so I'm
assuming that means it's not working perfectly but is still
functioning and will probably need fixing at some point.) Both lights
get brighter when the engine is squealing.
Click to expand...

They would get brighter when the belt is squealing because you are providing
less voltage to the battery to charge it - or keep it charged. The more the
belt is slipping, the less the system is properly charging, and the more of
an error condition you are experiencing. The poor test of your alternator
could have been from the belt slipping, or it could have been from a weak
alternator. Was the belt squealing when they tested it?

Likely you'll need a new belt at the very least. You can't tension belts
anymore, as serpentine belts have a spring tensioner that is part of the
belt path, and it keeps the belt at the right tension. Once they start to
squeal you have to change them. Don't fall for any cheap tricks like belt
dressing. The only time a belt needs dressing is for its funeral.


Well the reason for not fixing it right away is money. I don't do any
repairs myself or oil changes. Any trip to the garage is going to
cost me money and it's cheaper if you combine two things instead of
making two trips.
Click to expand...

Understood. In that case, have the service center verify whether the
alternator output is poor due to belt slippage and go with a new belt first.
Belts are typically $20 or so. Labor would not be more than a few minutes,
but there may be a minimum labor charge.
 
They would get brighter when the belt is squealing because you are providing
less voltage to the battery to charge it - or keep it charged. The more the
belt is slipping, the less the system is properly charging, and the more of
an error condition you are experiencing. The poor test of your alternator
could have been from the belt slipping, or it could have been from a weak
alternator. Was the belt squealing when they tested it?
Click to expand...

No. The belt only squeals when it's really cold out and then for only
like 30 seconds.

Chris
 
Guncho said:
No. The belt only squeals when it's really cold out and then for only
like 30 seconds.
Click to expand...

I'd get the alternator check again Chris, and if it still checks weak,
replace it. Often the bearings in an alternator will degrade, causing
resistance to the shaft rotating freely. This can result in belt squeals,
so there may be a correlation there. Either way, if the alternator tests
poorly, then you really have no choice but to replace it.
 
I'd get the alternator check again Chris, and if it still checks weak,
replace it. Often the bearings in an alternator will degrade, causing
resistance to the shaft rotating freely. This can result in belt squeals,
so there may be a correlation there. Either way, if the alternator tests
poorly, then you really have no choice but to replace it.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Well the other choice would be to hold off until it fails.

I generally can't afford to replace everything I own the second it
stops functioning perfectly and generally wait til it doesn't work at
all.

Chris
 
Well the other choice would be to hold off until it fails.

I generally can't afford to replace everything I own the second it
stops functioning perfectly and generally wait til it doesn't work at
all.
Click to expand...

Sometimes that works. Unless, or course, it freezes and causes the belt to
snap or shorts and kills the battery. Sometimes it is OK to wait, other
times it can be cheaper to bite the bullet. Ever lose all your belts on the
New Jersey Turnpike on a Sunday when it is 90 degrees? Or have to stay
overnight in Amsterdam NY because the alternator died too late in the day to
find a part and have it repaired?
 
Sometimes that works. Unless, or course, it freezes and causes the belt to
snap or shorts and kills the battery. Sometimes it is OK to wait, other
times it can be cheaper to bite the bullet. Ever lose all your belts on the
New Jersey Turnpike on a Sunday when it is 90 degrees? Or have to stay
overnight in Amsterdam NY because the alternator died too late in the day to
find a part and have it repaired?
Click to expand...

No, but the alternator has been like this for a year and a half and
the car has never failed to start.

Chris
 
It did this last winter as well so I doubt it's the water pump
leaking. If it was, wouldn't the car be dead by now?

Chris
Click to expand...

Well, could be, I always changed my pump when it staqrted leaking, so
I really don't know how long
they can go like that :)
 
Likely you'll need a new belt at the very least. You can't tension belts
anymore, as serpentine belts have a spring tensioner that is part of the
belt path, and it keeps the belt at the right tension. Once they start to
squeal you have to change them. Don't fall for any cheap tricks like belt
dressing. The only time a belt needs dressing is for its funeral.
Click to expand...

If you use belt dressing, the mechanic will hate you, cause they have
to clean all that gunk off for the new belt.
Belt dressing is for v belts, not the grooved kind.

I don't know if the 99 has a belt tensioner....there is a screw on the
mount for the alternator, that tensions the belt, I think.
That's something to check, that screw is difficult to tighten, and if
they didn't use lock tight on it, it will loosen back up,
and that will also cause squealing.
 
Guncho said:
my 1999 Hyundai Accent GSI
squeals like a pig when it's cold. This usually lasts for about a
minute and then goes away.
Chris
Click to expand...
Ok its not the brakes they squeal until you hit the pedal. The power steering pump squeals if low in fluid or if turning all the way to lock. If not these 2 things then its most likely the alternator or water pump. I have a 2000 elantra gls. I replaced the water pump due to a cooling issue(figured it was head gasket but it isnt getting worse so it stays for now) and i was having a problem with voltage dropping and eventually having no power(engine or electrical) so i replaced the alternator a second time as the i didnt learn my lesson on drivingin heavy rain and deep puddles and no splash guard. But with a junkyard alt in place and upon starting it squealed like i was murdering babe himself. After a few minutes it warmed up and did it only when rpms dropped after putting in gear. Might be not enough tension on the belt as i took that stupid bolt-through-a-block dealy and cleaned it. Going to tighten a bit more if it persists. But on the + side my check engine light is off. First time in months. Also for any reading this. Always put the splash shield back on even if you hate doing it. It actually protects the alternator.
 
Back
Top