Steering wheel shimmy 02 Elantra GLS

Discussion in 'Hyundai Elantra / Lantra' started by theBun, Nov 8, 2003.

  1. theBun

    theBun Guest

    I am hoping that someone in this group has had a similar experience and
    will be able to help?

    The short version:

    Bought used Elantra 15,000 miles. Other than clacky valves when first
    started, there have been only two problems.

    1. Brake pedal pulsation

    1a. This was corrected by taking a light cut off the rotors. There is,
    however, a noticable "shudder" (Hyundai's word for it is "judder") when
    applying the brakes at 70mph and slowing down to, lets say, 60mph.
    No pedal pulsation. More of a chassis pulsation cause by one of the
    rotors having large hot spots.


    2. Steering wheel shimmy between 65 - 80mph.

    2a. Had the original Michelin MXV4's road force balanced and match
    balanced on a GSP 9700. Got it to inprove some, but not enought to
    satisfy me. Three of the four steel wheels had lateral run-out greater
    than .040". Replaced the wheels with MB 177-5703C Chrome wheels. All
    four of the new wheels had -0- lateral run-out and at most .002" radial
    run-out. They balanced out like a dream. There was some RFV which we
    reduced by repositioning the tires for the front. The existing
    Michelins where put back on the new wheels in radom order (i.e. not in
    the same position they came off of. Test drive gave me extreem
    steering wheel shimmy. So, OK the tire are toast and I have a really
    nice set of chrome wheels. Replaced the tires with a set of Michelin
    Destiny's. These are really nice tires sold by Discount Tire Company.

    After replacing the tires 90% of the shimmy is gone. For some average
    drivers this may not be a problem for them.

    While the my car was on the lift I had the technician run it up to 80mph
    without the tires and wheels on. We could feel the remaining vibration
    start at 65mph and fade away at 80. Perhaps the frequency was just to
    high to make it noticable at that speed. The vibration was strong
    enough that I could feel it in my arm that was resting on the roof of
    the car as well as on the lift it self.

    Now the question is what components and in what sequence do we start
    eliminating front end items. I think i would start with measuring the
    rotor run-out on both rotors first. After viewing the TSB and service
    info at Hyundai's Tech Web, there are other possibilities such as
    scratched wheel bearings, CV joints, dynamic damper in the drive shafts.
    (not sure if my version has these or not. Good news is the service
    manager at the Hyundai dealer has agreed to work with me to try to
    locate the problem.

    Has anyone had a similar experience and found a solution?

    Thanks you.

    Paul
    theBun
    remove NOSPAM from my return address if replying to my email address
     
    theBun, Nov 8, 2003
    #1
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  2. theBun

    Mad Moe Guest

    The short answer is to replace NOT turn the rotors , the production
    run of OEM rotors are pretty crappy from that period . Hot spot
    warpage can't be fixed by turning the rotor . I had same problem and I
    only got it fixed by replacing them .

    Mad Moe
     
    Mad Moe, Nov 9, 2003
    #2
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  3. theBun

    theBun Guest

    This is exactly the feeling I am left with. I think if I were to mic the
    rotor thickness (or possibly lay a good straight-edge on the left rotor
    surface it would show that the rotor is thicker in some area. This
    could cause the rotor to be out of balance radially enough to give the
    slight vibration. It feels like this is the case when i brake fro 70
    down to 60, although there is no pulsation in the brake pedal that is
    noticable.

    Would it be best if I have them replace the pads as well so that I can
    "break them in" as a package?

    Thank you

    Paul
     
    theBun, Nov 9, 2003
    #3
  4. Depends. If the brake pads are worn out or close to it, replace them
    along with the rotors. If not, you can save a few bucks by leaving the
    old pads on, though you may want to look at
    http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/2003/October/09.html for the
    downside.
     
    Dances With Crows, Nov 10, 2003
    #4
  5. theBun

    Chuck Guest

    I had a Datsun 280Z a long time ago that had that problem. There was
    something on the car (not the wheels) that was out of balance, so I always
    had to have the wheels balanced on the car.
     
    Chuck, Dec 3, 2003
    #5
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