Synthetic oil opinions?

Hi,
I have a 3.3L V6 engine in my Sonata filled with normal mineral oil.
I purchased the car brand new 4 months ago here in the UK and have done 2500
miles.
I thought it would be a good idea to change oil after the break-in period.
My dealer only uses Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil.

Some questions.

1) Anyone have any comments about this oil?
The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30.
I'm wondering if 5W-40 will still be ok?

2) I read around the internet that it is a good idea to break-in using
mineral oil and then change to synthetic.
Any comments as to what a typical mileage would be to fill with synthetic?

3) Interestingly, my dealer also sells Citroen cars, and these come filled
with synthetic from new.
I read on the internet that synthetic is 'too slippery' to allow for proper
break-in.
I'm wondering if this adversly affects break-in/ engine life?

BTW, the cost for oil and filter is 60 GBP

cheers,
nick

 

Then go to another dealer or an independent shop.

Do you think your dealer knows better than the high priced, silled,
experienced engineers that designed the engine? They specify a particular
weight for a reason so why chance something else?

Some high performance engiens do come iwth synthetics. It is better oil,
but do you really need it? How long do you expect to keep the car? I've
gone 200,000 miles on a few cars with no oil related problems so spending
more moneyh for "better" would be no gain for me.

OUCH, I'd find another place. I know places around here that will do it for
less than half that.

 

Use the oil weight recommended in the manual. I use synthetic oil in my
car, but it doesn't cost me anywhere near what you've quoted, so it's
worth it to me. I would never pay such an exorbitant price for an oil
change!

 

Id be curious to read HyundaiTechs answers to these questions ., but,
Id go with the mfgr's recommendation for oil weight . I dont think 5w40
is the recommended . Im running 5w30 synthetic Mobil 1 with KandN
synthetic Oil filter in my 2002 Hyundai SantaFe 2.7 litre for maximum
protection. I know they have Walmart Stores over in the UK, so, why
dont you just buy some ramps , Mobil 1 Oil with oil filter and do it
yourself ? Youll save alot of money plus it could be a wonderful
bonding time with the wife !

 

Definitely use only what's recommended in the owner's manual. According to
the U.S. shop manual, the specified oil is 5W-20, grade SJ or better.
5W-30 is listed as an acceptable oil. So I'd recommend using 5W-20 if you
can find it, and if not, 5W-30.

It's my personal opinion that there's no significant advantage to
synthetic oil if you use normal oil change intervals. In addition,
manuafacturers don't allow longer intervals because synthetic is used.
I've driven cars up to 328,000 miles on dino oil. And that particular car
never once had an oil-related failure. In every case where I was able to
verify the mileage on the engine, I've achieved over 200,000 miles on
every engine, and only one (out of four) had an oil-related failure.

 

Many thanks for the replies.
cheers,
Nick

 

Hyundaitech correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the owners manual
allow for 10W-30 as well?

 

I don't have an owner's manual to check at the moment, so I cannot say. I
figured this was an exercise that Nick could undertake himself. But if
someone here wants to actually look this up in their 2006 Sonata Owner's
Manual, I'd be happy to hear the results.

 

From the book:
NOTE:

o For good fuel economy, SAE 5W-20 (5W-

30), ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is preferred

regardless of regional option and engine

variation.

o If SAE 5W-20, ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is

not available, secondary recommended

engine oil for corresponding temperature

range can be used.

 

If you're going to go to Walmart, you can get their SuperTech synthetic
oil in a 5 quart jug for a little over half the cost of Mobil 1. Before
anyone starts speculating, SuperTech Synthetic is a full synthetic oil,
it's NOT recycled and it's blended by Warren Oil, a company that
produces many of the major brand oils that you see on the shelves. Oil
analysis shows that it's comparable to these name brand oils in every
way, except for the price.

 

The only reason you'd want to use a 10W based oil is if you live in a
very hot climate.

 

'Warren Oil, a company that produces many of the major brand oils that
you see on the shelves. Oil analysis shows that it's comparable to these
name brand oils in every way, except for the price.'

REPLY: Interesting info. Thanks.

 

Thanks, Bob.

 

Yes it does state that earlier in the book in addition if you go to
the end of the manual, 9-4 there is a Lubricate Chart that states the
following:
"SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 (ALL TEMP. RANGE)
ILSAC GF-3 SAE 10W-30 (ABOVE 0°F(-18°C))"

 

I've used synthetics since the late 70s and will never go back to dino
oil. The main reason is the much better winter starting. From a wear
perspective, I believe synthetic is better, but probably not enough to
be a reason to use it. It also tolerates high temperatures much better,
which is important for some engines in some climates.

I use both Mobil 1 and Syntec and run 5,000 mile changes when the
vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals
once past 100,000.

I stick with the manufacturers recommended viscosity range.


Matt

 

'and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles
and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.'

REPLY: Whats the purpose of going longer in duration as the mileage
increases past 100 k ?

 

In many vehicles I've owned the powertrain warranty ran at least 70,000
miles and the Hyundai is 100,000 and 10K exceeds the manufacturers
service interval for most vehicles. So the main reason is to avoid any
potential warranty excuses.

The other reason is that the value of the vehicle is pretty well down
after 100K and my risk tolerance is thus higher. Although, so far I've
not had a single vehicle of the 6 or so that I've done this with that
showed any signs of distress with 10K change intervals.


Matt

 

Hi, I mention this in my original message, being
The UK car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30.

I've homed-in on Amsoil 5W-30. This complies with the manual and I found a
place in the UK that sells for a reasonable price.
The specification looks pretty impressive as well.
I want to use a good oil to keep my options open. I might keep the car for
many years.

I'm still intrigued that some car manufacturers fill their new vehicles with
synthetic oil. According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too
good at lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to
break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash?

I trust there are no subtle problems using Amsoil oil with a new Hyundai oil
filter cartridge.

cheers,
nick

 

'According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at
lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to
break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash?'

REPLY: Ive heard that you can use synthetic from the start but it just
requires a longer breakin period. Many new higher performance cars use
Mobil 1 from the factory including Corvette.

 

There has been a lot of discussion about whether synthetic is more
slippery than dino oil, but I've yet to see anything definitive. One
data point that suggests that this is a myth is synthetic oil is
approved for us in motorcycles that use wet clutches. However, I used
it in my Kawasaki Voyager and the clutch developed a shudder as it
engaged. It never outright slipped once fully engaged, but the
engagement wasn't as smooth. I switched back to dino oil and the
probably largely disappeared, although it never went back to normal
completely.

I suspect the difference in slipperiness is small, otherwise, wet
clutches wouldn't work with synthetic oil as they are quit sensitive to
the slipperiness of the oil they are bathed in.

I can't support it with data, but my opinion is that the break-in issues
are mostly myth as with many other aspects of synthetics. Most new cars
don't require much of a break-in anyway.

Matt