uh oh, 2001 elantra clutch fluid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andre
  • Start date Start date
A

Andre

Hi folks, got a question for anyone kind enough to help.

2001 Elantra, 5speed. While driving, I noticed the clutch lost pressure.
When I checked the reservoir, it was bone dry. (80k miles, I thought it was
full, but it was the cap i saw inside, not fluid)

I've refilled the res, and the clutch operates, but loses pressure, and
needs to be pumped occasionally to regain full pressure. I've noticed no
leaks at all at any of the fittings, no puddles, or telltale signs of leaks.
I've put 20k miles on it since late January when I bought it (I'm a field
service technician for an electronics co.) and it just started this problem
today.

I see what I think is a bleeder screw underneath my air box, but not
terribly certain on how to bleed it if that is the problem. Has anyone had
a similar problem, or does anyone know if something in the system has
failed, even though I can't see any leaked fluid? (and I haven't been able
to find a chilton's manual at my local parts stores)

If I've left out any vital info, let me know and I'll respond asap.

Thanks for any help.

Andre
 
You've probably found the bleeder. It's on the release cylinder, which us
under the air box bolted onto the transmission. The clutch system bleeds
pretty much like a brake system: open the bleeder, depress the pedal,
close the bleeder, pull the pedal up, and repeat. It's often difficult to
get all the air out of a clutch system. If you have a vacuum pump you can
attach to the bleeder instead of pumping, that'll probably give you the
best results.
 
thanks hyundaitech,

is it possible some component in the system has failed (no leaks spotted),
or is it normal for the reservoir to be empty (80k miles) if it hasn't been
closely monitored?
 
hyundaitech said:
You've probably found the bleeder. It's on the release cylinder, which us
under the air box bolted onto the transmission. The clutch system bleeds
pretty much like a brake system: open the bleeder, depress the pedal,
close the bleeder, pull the pedal up, and repeat. It's often difficult to
get all the air out of a clutch system. If you have a vacuum pump you can
attach to the bleeder instead of pumping, that'll probably give you the
best results.
Click to expand...
If you need to bleed the clutch but don't have anyone to assist you, cut
a piece of wood long enough to wedge between the driver's seat and the
depressed clutch pedal and use it to hold the pedal down while you close
the bleeder.
 
If you need to bleed the clutch but don't have anyone to assist you, cut
a piece of wood long enough to wedge between the driver's seat and the
depressed clutch pedal and use it to hold the pedal down while you close
the bleeder.
Click to expand...

Take it to a competent mechanic, I had a clutch cylinder
fail on a car several years ago, was stuck in 2nd gear, no reverse
or any other gear. Managed to get rolling and slowly drive to a
repair shop.
 
No, the fluid shouldn't be low unless you have a leak. Pull back the boot
on the release cylinder and check for fluid there. Also look behind your
dash to see if any is coming out of the clutch master cylinder.
 
okay, I did locate the problem.....it's definitely the master cylinder.
It's got fluid on the inside behind the dash just as you described.

I have the part on order, next question-

when I change the master cylinder is there anything I need to watch out for,
i.e. sensitive adjustments, or is it a pretty straightforward part swap
(aside from bleeding the system, which i know is necessary.)

again....thanks for everyone's help. hopefully someday I can repay the
favor.

andre
 
Andre said:
okay, I did locate the problem.....it's definitely the master cylinder.
It's got fluid on the inside behind the dash just as you described.

I have the part on order, next question-

when I change the master cylinder is there anything I need to watch out for,
i.e. sensitive adjustments, or is it a pretty straightforward part swap
(aside from bleeding the system, which i know is necessary.)
Click to expand...

Bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it in the car. The new one
should come with instructions on how to do this.
 
You'll need to adjust the pedal free play. Basically, what you're looking
for is that the pedal moves in and out slightly before activating the
master cylinder. Use the pedal free play before you remove the old part
as a guide as to how you should adjust the new cylinder.
 
Just wanted to take a minute to thank those who helped out.

Did the repair a couple weekends ago, from the moment I popped the hood,
till I finished bleeding the system and tested it's operation, (and adjusted
the free play 'til it felt just like the old one) it was under an hour.

much appreciated,

Andre
 
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