XG350 fuel injector and now EGR problems

I had a fuel injector go bad the other day on my 2002 XG350 - apparently it
was spraying gas all the time. I was able to limp home and then got screwed
by the local garage when they fixed it. $600 to replace a fuel injector and
do shoddy work like forget to plug one of the electrical connectors back
together, leave the back 7 bolts on the plenum lose, forget to tighten one
of the hose clamps on the air snorkel altogether, and over tighten the oil
filter when they changed oil (that I didn't authorize). But all that is in
the past, or is it?

A few days later the check engine light lit up and the code is P0401, EGR
flow insufficient. Needless to say, I don't want to bring the car back to
that garage (I'm sure they could scam some more money out of me - they were
really slick). From what I could get out of the web site and my service
book, this almost looks like a low vacuum problem rather than an EGR valve
problem. Any recommendations as to how to fix it? I have a second 2002
XG350 that I can swap parts back and forth with. Also, If the EGR valve is
a suspect, how does it come off? There are 2 bolts that hold it to the
polonium, but then there is a big nut connecting it to a tube...looks like
there isn't enough room back there to get a wrench on the nut. If the nut
does come off, is there some sort of thread sealant required when you
re-install? sparkplug antiseeze compound maybe? Also the manual stated
that the EGR gasket should be replaced. How important is this? - I've done
spark plugs a couple times and have never bothered with the EGR gasket.

Thanks

Dan

 

Check the small things first. Make sure the shop connected the vacuu
lines properly and that the EGR solenoid is plugged in. The shop may hav
removed or disconnected the EGR valve when removing the plenum to acces
the injector.

A quick check of the vacuum lines is to use needlenose pliers to pinch of
the hose with the yellow stripe while the engine is idling. This shoul
cause the EGR valve to open and the engine to run rough. If this occurs
you can pretty much conclude that the hoses are run correctly and that th
EGR valve and passages are functioning normally, leaving the EGR solenoi
and vacuum bleed-off valve as possible culprits.

It's doubtful that the EGR valve is the problem, but I've seen it occur.
Before swapping parts, use the other XG to verify the proper installatio
of all parts

 

Other competancy issues aside, it was probably a good idea to change the
oil. If there was a lot of gas being sprayed in the cylinders, it may have
gotten down into the cranckase.

 

Thanks Hyundaitech and others, turned out to be a broken nipple on the EGR
solenoid. Whoever broke it then placed the vacuum hose back in position so
nobody would notice. I had been over that whole circuit at least twice and
did not see anything wrong. Not until I started troubleshooting and
touching things did the problem become evident. I was able to glue the
solenoid back together, but I'm going back to that garage tomorrow, armed
with pictures and the price of a new solenoid ($52.20 plus tax) to do
battle. This was a deliberate attempt to cover up a mistake on their part.
For all I know, they knew I'd be back in a few hundred miles so they could
try and get some more money out of me.

Dan

 

i feel sorry for you and i got ripped off for the tune of 800.00 at a local
garage also. i swear i will never take mine into one of these type of shops
again, even if it's highly recommended , like this one was.

 

As automobile diagnosis and repair became much more technically
oriented most old time shade tree mechanics such as myself admitted to
themselves that they do not have the skills required for repairing
cars especially those manufactured since the OBD system came about.

There are small independent repair shops in business who quit
obviously also do not have these skills.

I use my judgment of the skill level required before deciding to take
my vehicles to a in dependant shop or to the dealer. For example, I
will take it to an independent that comes well recommended for brake
work.

If it is a problem that requires some indepth analysis and diagnosis,
I go to the dealer. (not to say a dealer mech can't screw up, but the
odds are far better than at Jiffy Lube)

From an Old_Timer who worked on Model A Fords before they became
collector cars.

Old_Timer

 

i admire your candor Mr. old timer you at least are big enough to admit
when to say when .
i agree with you ,i'm only 49 yrs old ,but I've learned a tremendous amount
about troubleshooting these newer cars and have some good general diagnostic
equipment, but my last ordeal, would have been done months earlier and for
less money, if i would have gone to the dealer first thing. the moral of my
story is, just because someone has a 7000.00 scan tool, doesn't mean they
know how to use it.