Hyundai car making strange noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike3
  • Start date Start date
For the sake of MY sanity, this thread is killfiled.  but before I go,
lift the hood and see if you can narrow it down to a slipping
alternator/acon/water pump belt.
Click to expand...

I checked it, it seems tight.
BY BYE !!!!!
<PLONK>
Click to expand...

Forget this group...
 
some people should take the bus.

TAKE THE HUBCAPS OFF!  Can you do that???  Then, DO IT and report back
here if the *noise* went away.
Click to expand...

It's a family car and the rest of the family doesn't agree on doing
this hubcap thing,
for the reasons I've given.
 
It's a family car and the rest of the family doesn't agree on doing
this hubcap thing,
for the reasons I've given.
Click to expand...

sight unseen, sound not heard, it is impossible to diagnose
 
I'm thinking it's a sticky caliper. Just did another set of rear discs
on a GM with STUCK glides.

Anyone have a better lube for them? The stuff I'm using now is a
silicone based grease made for the pins but it still doesn't last that long.
The current method is to clean (or replace them if pitted) the pins. use
a dowel to clean out the bores (a .30 caliber gun brush works REAL well)
then solvent flush and air dry. Then a generous helping of lube and
install the pins. Then a light coat of sealer inside the boot to lock it
to the caliper mount and to the pin. I would think that water/air
wouldn't be getting in there but I still get a couple that stick.
Click to expand...

There are a lot of good brake greases available. I'm currently using
a purple colored Permatex product (brush in cap style) that may
actually be relabelled Ceramlub. Its visible properties and
performance seem OK but it's too early to tell at this time. If you
are in NY, then you just have to suffer the consequences of nasty
weather and salt (if used). I would suggest on caliper bores that
aren't corroded, you don't brush them or their pins, but clean and dry
with solvent/swab/whatever. There's no reason to abraid the corrosion
resistant coating if it is still working. On corroded parts you have
to wire brush or replace. The rubber components are usually the
culprit when a pin gets corroded. If you replace them with the
typical aftermarket boot kit you will probably be in for more of the
same as they are often thin, distorted junk compared to OE. They
barely hold up here in mostly decent weather, I can't imagine crappy
boots standing a chance in the N.E.
 
I got some black stuff in little clear plastic tubes; can't remember
name...too lazy to dig through my *kit* but for giggles, couldn't you
just squeeze some silver-colored anti-seize into the pin guides?  The
same stuff we use on spark plugs.  Takes the heat, just can't say how
long it would stay where it should.  Then in 30 days or so, see if you
still have play in the calipers...maybe use a screwdriver to test, but
remember the pads need to be compressed first.  So have to remove
wheel and tire to do that.  Just an idea if you've got the time.

Nick




- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Antiseize isn't a terrible thing to use on sealed slide parts, but it
isn't ideal or recommended for this application. It isn't quite the
lubricant that silicone/ceramic products are and it doesn't seal out,
shed or adhere in moisture as well.
 
Antiseize isn't a terrible thing to use on sealed slide parts, but it
isn't ideal or recommended for this application. It isn't quite the
lubricant that silicone/ceramic products are and it doesn't seal out,
shed or adhere in moisture as well.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks for the Tip, MTD. I'll keep using that brake grease that
I buy in little tubes then. I find one little tube will do two
calipers/anti-squeal shims. I would hate to go to all that trouble
only to find the pin slides *dry* from seepage or some such.

Nick
 
Toyota said:
There are a lot of good brake greases available. I'm currently using
a purple colored Permatex product (brush in cap style) that may
actually be relabelled Ceramlub. Its visible properties and
performance seem OK but it's too early to tell at this time. If you
are in NY, then you just have to suffer the consequences of nasty
weather and salt (if used). I would suggest on caliper bores that
aren't corroded, you don't brush them or their pins, but clean and dry
with solvent/swab/whatever. There's no reason to abraid the corrosion
resistant coating if it is still working. On corroded parts you have
to wire brush or replace. The rubber components are usually the
culprit when a pin gets corroded. If you replace them with the
typical aftermarket boot kit you will probably be in for more of the
same as they are often thin, distorted junk compared to OE. They
barely hold up here in mostly decent weather, I can't imagine crappy
boots standing a chance in the N.E.
Click to expand...


Yep, upstate NY. Never heard of nasty weather here...;-) Salt? OH you
mean "corrosion accelerator"..


I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
 
Toyota MDT in MO wrote:







Yep, upstate NY. Never heard of nasty weather here...;-) Salt? OH you
mean "corrosion accelerator"..

I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
Click to expand...

If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
about) burnishing the pins?

Thanks.

Toyota MDT in MO
 
sight unseen, sound not heard, it is impossible to diagnose
Click to expand...

So you couldn't hear in the recording? Did you turn it up loud enough
and listen for the
chittering at the times I mentioned?
 
Toyota said:
If you don't mind me asking, what do you mean by (or how do you go
about) burnishing the pins?

Thanks.

Toyota MDT in MO
Click to expand...

Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
smooth then.

I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.
 
Toyota MDT in MO wrote:







Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
smooth then.

I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.
Click to expand...

I see. That's going pretty far but I like your methodology and
perseverance :-)
 
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