T
theBun
I am hoping that someone in this group has had a similar experience and
will be able to help?
The short version:
Bought used Elantra 15,000 miles. Other than clacky valves when first
started, there have been only two problems.
1. Brake pedal pulsation
1a. This was corrected by taking a light cut off the rotors. There is,
however, a noticable "shudder" (Hyundai's word for it is "judder") when
applying the brakes at 70mph and slowing down to, lets say, 60mph.
No pedal pulsation. More of a chassis pulsation cause by one of the
rotors having large hot spots.
2. Steering wheel shimmy between 65 - 80mph.
2a. Had the original Michelin MXV4's road force balanced and match
balanced on a GSP 9700. Got it to inprove some, but not enought to
satisfy me. Three of the four steel wheels had lateral run-out greater
than .040". Replaced the wheels with MB 177-5703C Chrome wheels. All
four of the new wheels had -0- lateral run-out and at most .002" radial
run-out. They balanced out like a dream. There was some RFV which we
reduced by repositioning the tires for the front. The existing
Michelins where put back on the new wheels in radom order (i.e. not in
the same position they came off of. Test drive gave me extreem
steering wheel shimmy. So, OK the tire are toast and I have a really
nice set of chrome wheels. Replaced the tires with a set of Michelin
Destiny's. These are really nice tires sold by Discount Tire Company.
After replacing the tires 90% of the shimmy is gone. For some average
drivers this may not be a problem for them.
While the my car was on the lift I had the technician run it up to 80mph
without the tires and wheels on. We could feel the remaining vibration
start at 65mph and fade away at 80. Perhaps the frequency was just to
high to make it noticable at that speed. The vibration was strong
enough that I could feel it in my arm that was resting on the roof of
the car as well as on the lift it self.
Now the question is what components and in what sequence do we start
eliminating front end items. I think i would start with measuring the
rotor run-out on both rotors first. After viewing the TSB and service
info at Hyundai's Tech Web, there are other possibilities such as
scratched wheel bearings, CV joints, dynamic damper in the drive shafts.
(not sure if my version has these or not. Good news is the service
manager at the Hyundai dealer has agreed to work with me to try to
locate the problem.
Has anyone had a similar experience and found a solution?
Thanks you.
Paul
theBun
remove NOSPAM from my return address if replying to my email address
will be able to help?
The short version:
Bought used Elantra 15,000 miles. Other than clacky valves when first
started, there have been only two problems.
1. Brake pedal pulsation
1a. This was corrected by taking a light cut off the rotors. There is,
however, a noticable "shudder" (Hyundai's word for it is "judder") when
applying the brakes at 70mph and slowing down to, lets say, 60mph.
No pedal pulsation. More of a chassis pulsation cause by one of the
rotors having large hot spots.
2. Steering wheel shimmy between 65 - 80mph.
2a. Had the original Michelin MXV4's road force balanced and match
balanced on a GSP 9700. Got it to inprove some, but not enought to
satisfy me. Three of the four steel wheels had lateral run-out greater
than .040". Replaced the wheels with MB 177-5703C Chrome wheels. All
four of the new wheels had -0- lateral run-out and at most .002" radial
run-out. They balanced out like a dream. There was some RFV which we
reduced by repositioning the tires for the front. The existing
Michelins where put back on the new wheels in radom order (i.e. not in
the same position they came off of. Test drive gave me extreem
steering wheel shimmy. So, OK the tire are toast and I have a really
nice set of chrome wheels. Replaced the tires with a set of Michelin
Destiny's. These are really nice tires sold by Discount Tire Company.
After replacing the tires 90% of the shimmy is gone. For some average
drivers this may not be a problem for them.
While the my car was on the lift I had the technician run it up to 80mph
without the tires and wheels on. We could feel the remaining vibration
start at 65mph and fade away at 80. Perhaps the frequency was just to
high to make it noticable at that speed. The vibration was strong
enough that I could feel it in my arm that was resting on the roof of
the car as well as on the lift it self.
Now the question is what components and in what sequence do we start
eliminating front end items. I think i would start with measuring the
rotor run-out on both rotors first. After viewing the TSB and service
info at Hyundai's Tech Web, there are other possibilities such as
scratched wheel bearings, CV joints, dynamic damper in the drive shafts.
(not sure if my version has these or not. Good news is the service
manager at the Hyundai dealer has agreed to work with me to try to
locate the problem.
Has anyone had a similar experience and found a solution?
Thanks you.
Paul
theBun
remove NOSPAM from my return address if replying to my email address